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Hunky Monkey 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Tom Painter (1st pitch), 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,592
Submitted By: Tom Painter on Jan 1, 2005
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Bijan Tuysserkani took this pic from the belay whi...

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Description 

Hunky Monkey starts out of the bank of the creek in the right-facing dihedral right of the first pitch of Autumn and just left of the first pitch of Divination (more specifically just left of the direct start to Divination).

P1: climb a right-facing dihedral to ledge (.10d, 12 bolts - ~ 90').

P2: go straight off of belay up into short, right-facing dihedral to large, left-sloping ledge (.10d, ~6 bolts - ~ 50').

P3: continute up the large, left-sloping ledge to black-streaked bolted headwall, climb intricately up the headwall to hands/fingers crack, go over the headwall into a scoop, and make delicate face moves above to anchor on the prow (.11b/c, 9 bolts - ~ 90').

P4: strike out along a prow to left-facing dihedral and onto steep headwall above (.10d/.11a, 6 bolts - ~60').

A 70m rope is questionable for a rap. It is better to bring 2 ropes or walkoff.

Presently, it needs further cleaning on upper pitches. After some usage, this will be a Dream Canyon classic.


Protection 

Well bolted - 15 draws more than sufficient. You can place a #1 Tech Friend between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the first pitch to protect the easy move to the 3rd. Ring bolt anchors, rap possible at each station.



Photos of Hunky Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
At the P4 crux roof at the very top of the crag. This pitch is contrived but fun. If you're tall enough, it's a stretch for a big hold, and you're done. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
At the P4 crux roof at the very top of the crag. T...
Lon Black leads the first pitch of Hunky Monkey on Sunday, July 11, 2004.
Lon Black leads the first pitch of Hunky Monkey on...
Stepping left onto the steep headwall at the start of P3. It rained a lot the previous 2 days, hence the major wet streaks to Chuck's left. The climb diagonals right acoss the black streaks up and left from Chuck and then moves left onto the arete at the top center of the photo. <br /> <br />Photo by Ivan Rezucha.
Stepping left onto the steep headwall at the start...
Irina Overeem making the airy step left at the top of the first pitch.
Irina Overeem making the airy step left at the top...
J. Stock cruising to the top of the first pitch - a beautiful line full of balance and variety.
J. Stock cruising to the top of the first pitch - ...
We thought the white corner above Ken was the crux of P1.
We thought the white corner above Ken was the crux...
Chuck is nearing the top of P1. I am belaying at the top of P2 after linking P1 and P2. You can rap to the ground from the P2 belay with a 70m rope. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Chuck is nearing the top of P1. I am belaying at t...
This photo shows all of pitches 1 and 2. P1 climbs the series of right facing corners and then moves left at the bottom of the last corner before the roof to belay near the green vegetation. P2 climbs up then right and back left through the roof where the rope is hanging from the skyline.
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows all of pitches 1 and 2. P1 climbs...
Chuck has just finished the thin traverse moves to the arete. It's still mid 10 above this, but at least now there are some real holds.
Chuck has just finished the thin traverse moves to...
The scenic start. <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
The scenic start.
Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Joseffa Meir and Kre Reischel are at the belay at the top of P1 on 'Hunky Monkey (5.11a)' on Lost Angel in Boulder's Dream Canyon. Photo taken from mid-pitch on P2 by Tony Bubb, 2005.
Joseffa Meir and Kre Reischel are at the belay at ...
The second pitch is lots of fun, but looks a bit intimidating from below. However, after the hard move right above the belay, it's only about 5.8. Big holds everywhere. I'm linking P1 and P2. The P1 belay is to the left of the right facing corner at the bottom left of the photo. <br /> <br />Photo by Paul Rezucha.
The second pitch is lots of fun, but looks a bit i...
Rapping first pitch. Great climb!
Rapping first pitch. Great climb!
Comments on Hunky Monkey Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2013
By Scott Hudson
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

You can just barely avoid the water to get on this route as of 6/23/04. A lot of fun and varied climbing on this. The crux 3rd pitch is definitely well protected and hard. The "delicate" face moves after the steep section are amazingly thin. I agree that this one will be a classic after some more traffic cleans it up a bit.

By Lon Black
Jun 25, 2004

Fun climb with various moves. I've done it with two people so far, and they agreed it was sweet. I found out today that the end of the third pitch really sucks in the rain.

By the way, it isn't just left of Divination. It is just right of Autumn. From what I could tell, it looks like there's another line in between Hunky Monkey and Divination.

By Tom Painter
Jun 29, 2004

Thanks for posting the photo Lon!

Just to clarify, Hunky Monkey starts just left of the direct start to Divination (12a) - see the descriptions of Divination, Divination Direct, and Dynomonometer (frequently confused for Divination). I keep meaning to take a camera into Dream and shoot a photo so that we can clarify the new and used routes.

By John Fulwider
Jul 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Lon Black set up a top route for me and my group on this, the best route I've yet climbed in my first outdoor season. It has all the moves I like to do: laybacks, sidepulls, mantles, and even a combination heel-hook and mantle underneath and to the right of the roof about three-quarters of the way up the first pitch.

The route is more mentally challenging than physically challenging, which I like, because I don't have the finger strength yet to do the crimpy stuff. The holds are just deliciously positive once you find them. You have to look hard, but there's usually a comfortable position from which to do so.

Did I mention you get to listen to the rushing stream while you climb? Wonderful! Highly recommended.

If I were on lead I'd want a two-foot runner for one of the clips near the top, as well as one piece of supplemental pro to protect the long reach over the roof. But I can't stand falling on lead, so I always overdo the pro.

Ensure you have a rope bag or tarp, otherwise your rope may get wet -- you have to belay from right next to the water.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2004

An excellent climb; on a par with its neighbor Autumn. If you don't have time for the whole climb, just do the first pitch: steep, enjoyable climbing that comes in around 10a or 10b. The second pitch also seems to be about 10a, with the crux right off the belay. The third pitch has two crux sections: the hand and finger crack, and the upper slab. Both are solid 11. The fourth pitch overhang crux felt about mid-range 10; easier if you're tall.

One of the finest climbs I've done in Upper Dream Canyon.

By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Hunky Monkey is a good addition to Lost Angel Wall. Although slightly over-graded and over-bolted; it's high-quality and will clean up w/ traffic. A couple key flakes on the p3 crux headwall were flexing and about to snap, but it shouldn't change the grade since other ample holds exist. Really only a 2 pitch climb -- it's easy to combine p1/2 and p3/4 since the 2nd and 4th pitches are way short, make sure to bring enough draws if you do this. Overall, a fun route.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Aug 15, 2004

This climb still has some loose stuff on it. I took a 25 footer as I was approaching the P1 anchor, when a foot broke off. Fun line, that should get better as it cleans up. Be careful...

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 13, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

P1 seemed about 10a/b, P2 10a, P3 11a. Didn't do P4, not knowing it existed. P3 looks ugly but climbs nicely. The slab above the steep headwall is contrived but fun.

Lots of trad gear potential on P1-P3. Would have been better in my opinion as a mixed climb.

And, it appears that part of this WAS climbed trad--no one has yet mentioned the stacked pins on P2: A Leeper Z with another pin stacked, in a horizontal as you move right .

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 13, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

A 70m rope gets you down easily from the top of P2. Don't know if a 60m works.

By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I did this whole route today and really enjoyed it.I agree that this is an excellent addition to this wall. I have done this with 2 people now and the consesus so far is that the first pitch is about 10b, the second about 10a, and the third 11a. We thought the last pitch was 10c and is a really short and fun. The very crux for me is the move after the steep section on pitch 3 stepping left into the bowl and then continuing up the arete and left side of the arete. This probably could be avoided in the crack to the right but would remove one of the best cruxes on the route.

Very fun all the way to the top.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 10, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Went back to this, and this time did the last pitch. It's a bit contrived, but fun. You can rap from the top in 2 rappels with a 70m rope. Linking P1 and P2 is possible with care. The finger and hand jams on P3 were very wet 12+ hours after a heavy rain, but it was still climbable.

By S. Kimball
Oct 26, 2004

The guy that says you could lead this trad has his head up his arse, that goes for the 5.9+ too..

By Bruce Pech
Aug 24, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I'm gonna dissent from the "consensus" and agree, in part, with Tom Painter (the OP), Scott Hudson & Ron Olsen. P1: Superb, steep climbing with a move or two of .10b. P2: Short but fun, .10a. P3: after the ramp, the headwall starts at .10 something but the finger locks and insecure, flaring hand crack up the ante to strenuous .11b/c while the slab and arete moves above take some wild .11b smearing. P4: easy climbing to the dihedral, one move of .10b/c over the roof.

Lastly, a word of caution about the descent. Two raps with a 70m rope will get you to the ground with about 2' of rope remaining at each rap. However, pulling the rope after the rap from the anchors at the top of P4 to the belay at the top of P2 is a gamble. It's very easy for the end of the rope to wedge in the deep crack between the "prow" and "left-facing dihedral" 10' above the belay at the bottom of P4. It happened to us. If you have a 70m and don't want to gamble, do a short rap down P4, a 90' rap down P3, and a 115' rap from the P2/P3 anchors to the deck.

By Nat Thiem
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2009

There seem to be some added bolt lines on Hunky Monkey that can lure climbers off the route (such as me). On pitch 2, there seems to be a left variation that goes straight over the roof (which was fun). On pitch three I went far astray: instead of moving up the ramp, there is a red bolt line going straight up to the left. It goes for two more pitches. Does anyone know what these pitches are?

Edit. I see that the comments for Autumn address this other set of bolts.

By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Super enjoyable 1st 2 pitches that can be linked - no gear needed. Slab was crux for me on P3.

By John Dubya
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Oh sooo good. I'm going to be in the 10c camp on the 1st pitch. Felt like sustained 10ish climbing for 20 or so feet before the anchor. Third pitch is a gem, but def technical, thin slab after the overhanging crux. I'll have to agree with those who say harder than .11a.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 2, 2013

Careful climbing up to and clipping the third bolt off the ground...probably a groundfall if you blow it there.