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T-Wall East
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Hungry for Heaven 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Robyn Erbesfield - 1985
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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Crux section on Hungry for Heaven.

Description 

This is the striking crack system on a narrow buttress of rock right of Finger Lockin' Good and left of the Golden Gloves area. Climb this ever-steepening crack with good but well-spaced gear up through a cruxy obtuse corner, then step left to what looks like a hand jam in a bulge. Pull through this and continue up a thin crack before stepping right to a second crack and up to the anchor. Pumpy and goey!


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By tenesmus
Dec 10, 2006

Has this route changed in the last couple of years because I thought it was .10c and the DCA says its .10b/c?

Had a friend blow the hard move above the initial roof, pull a #3 cam and deck hard. He landed in the lounge chair position and rolled down the steep slope below. It was so scary - I was worried he'd tumble all the way down into those trees. He tried to get up but I pinned him down so we could assess him. Turned out he'd broken his wrist and had compression fractures in two of his vertebrae. No one else was at the crag and fortunately for us he was able to walk out. Scary day at the T-wall.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 10, 2006

The latest edition of the Cragger rates it at 10d. Are you sure you're not thinking of Board Walk, which is to the right of Hungry and rated 10b/c? Glad your friend wasn't hurt worse.

By tenesmus
Dec 10, 2006

previous edition. Sure about the route though.

Man I miss that place these days...

By 426
Mar 5, 2007

tenesmus is correct, H4H is 10b/c in my DCA. I've noticed that quite a few routes got uprated in the new guide--also, "David" (big guy) gave me updated ratings on many routes.. T-Wall is about as bagged as anywhere I've climbed. Some of the 11a/b sport routes feel like 11d...ie Surf's Up.

Glad to have the beta, have walked by and eyed the #3 placement you speak of, looks a little shallow though. Doesn't look like there is much else right in that area.

By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 19, 2011

I've done easier 11's....

By Spiro
Nov 27, 2011

you could put a #4 in the big ledge down and right of the "roof" to back up the 3 if you are not feeling so good.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 2, 2014

I didn't find the gear at the start to be that difficult. It tapers down, which means large nut, pink/red tri-cam, or .5 camalot. I went with the .5 and still had plenty of space for the upper jam right above the roof. The route is hard, more like an 11.