Hungry for Heaven 5.10c
| 1,069 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Tony Calderone and Kathy Lagerquist, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Eric Jacobsen on Aug 28, 2003 |
| |
Almost on easy street.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Short and hard, this climb follows the arete just to the right of the Holy Grail crack. I found it too difficult to start directly below the arete so started to the left on the face. Very small crimpers and good footwork are necessary to get over the crux from the first bolt past the second. This route can also be toproped after climbing Holy Grail (5.6).
Protection 3 bolts to a double chain anchor. hard route but good bolt placements
BETA PHOTO: Holy Grail (5.6 #24) and Hungry for Heaven (...
|
Giving a tougher climb a run.
|
Slap!!
| | | |
| Comments on Hungry for Heaven |
|
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.11a
| Beta on the beginning: Don't start on the arete. Start near the crack and traverse over on the hand ledges. This info came courtesy of the FA party. I spent 2 years unable to do this climb because the book led me to believe that I had to start on the arete. Otherwise the climb stays right on the arete. Very sequential crux, with, (As EJ said) integral footwork. |
By Fall Guy
May 21, 2007
| Aren't the bolts on this route kind of close to a crack? One can do the 5.6 crack and clip the bolts on the arete. |
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Jun 21, 2008
| I don't think the bolts are close enough to the 5.6 crack to be clippable. The middle section between the 1st and 2nd bolts is for sure the crux for most people. The moves are a little bit awkward. The holds are crimpy, but overall they are pretty bomber. Throw in some smears here and there and your golden. |
By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008
| Fully contrived. |
|
RSS Feed
22 more...
Slideshow
