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Hungry for Heaven 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tony Calderone and Kathy Lagerquist, 1992
Page Views: 1,466
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Aug 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Do not try to use the crack to the left


Short and hard, this climb follows the arete just to the right of the Holy Grail crack. I found it too difficult to start directly below the arete so started to the left on the face. Very small crimpers and good footwork are necessary to get over the crux from the first bolt past the second. This route can also be toproped after climbing Holy Grail (5.6).


3 bolts to a double chain anchor. hard route but good bolt placements

Photos of Hungry for Heaven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost on easy street.
Almost on easy street.
Rock Climbing Photo: Holy Grail (5.6 #24) and Hungry for Heaven (5.10c ...
BETA PHOTO: Holy Grail (5.6 #24) and Hungry for Heaven (5.10c ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Slap!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Giving a tougher climb a run.
Giving a tougher climb a run.

Comments on Hungry for Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Beta on the beginning: Don't start on the arete. Start near the crack and traverse over on the hand ledges. This info came courtesy of the FA party. I spent 2 years unable to do this climb because the book led me to believe that I had to start on the arete. Otherwise the climb stays right on the arete. Very sequential crux, with, (As EJ said) integral footwork.
By T Roper
May 21, 2007

Aren't the bolts on this route kind of close to a crack? One can do the 5.6 crack and clip the bolts on the arete.
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Jun 21, 2008

I don't think the bolts are close enough to the 5.6 crack to be clippable. The middle section between the 1st and 2nd bolts is for sure the crux for most people. The moves are a little bit awkward. The holds are crimpy, but overall they are pretty bomber. Throw in some smears here and there and your golden.
By Ben Folsom
Jun 30, 2008

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008

Fully contrived.
By Eli Peterson
From: Orem
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you stay on the arete (besides start) it is not contrived. Read Nathan Fishers comment for the beta. Did think it was a bit more difficult than a 10c however that may have been because my shoe blew out and I was climbng with an exposed big toe....

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