Short and hard, this climb follows the arete just to the right of the Holy Grail crack. I found it too difficult to start directly below the arete so started to the left on the face. Very small crimpers and good footwork are necessary to get over the crux from the first bolt past the second. This route can also be toproped after climbing Holy Grail (5.6).
3 bolts to a double chain anchor. hard route but good bolt placements
Almost on easy street.
BETA PHOTO: Holy Grail (5.6 #24) and Hungry for Heaven (...
|By Nathan Fisher|
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beta on the beginning: Don't start on the arete. Start near the crack and traverse over on the hand ledges. This info came courtesy of the FA party. I spent 2 years unable to do this climb because the book led me to believe that I had to start on the arete. Otherwise the climb stays right on the arete. Very sequential crux, with, (As EJ said) integral footwork.
From: The land of steady habits
May 21, 2007
Aren't the bolts on this route kind of close to a crack? One can do the 5.6 crack and clip the bolts on the arete.
|By AJ Dexter|
From: Portland, OR
Jun 21, 2008
I don't think the bolts are close enough to the 5.6 crack to be clippable. The middle section between the 1st and 2nd bolts is for sure the crux for most people. The moves are a little bit awkward. The holds are crimpy, but overall they are pretty bomber. Throw in some smears here and there and your golden.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008