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> 1. Black Wall - Left
Hungover Hangover
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 48 votes
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Craig (Shanny) Shanholtzer, early-to-mid '70s. |
Page Views: | 3,976 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jul 5, 2009 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Hungover Hangover is a 50 foot pitch halfway up the left side of Black Wall. From the belay bolts atop Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go, look up and spy this impressive looking handcrack!
This crack overhangs a tad, and runs between tight hands, hands and big hands, moving into a pod before swinging out over the slight lip and into slabbier territory.
The granite is highly features, with large cubic feldspar crystals on the face... and inside the crack! I highly recommend taping for this one, it is sharp in there and I got chewed up.
Finishes up above the overhang on some belay bolts. From here you can rap, climb Empty Sky (out left) continue up the big corner (not in guide, 5.7ish) or step right onto the face for a route out there.
First Ascent History
"Ron Kauk, a partner I have shared a rope with, did not make the FA of Hungover Hangover as [previously] accredited. I know this because Kim Schmitz and I finished the cleaning of moss and lichens from the crack that Kim and Jim Bridwell had started earlier. Kim, a far superior climber to myself, fell on the crux move at the bulge, and came down. I went up to take a shot at it and was able to make the move and make the FA on the route. Kim followed shortly without falling again. This took place in the early-to-mid '70s.
Kim and Jim have passed on, but I believe you can verify this with the Tahoe locals such as Hansi Stanteiner, Bob Carter, Craig Calonica and others that rememmber the events.
Respectfully,
Craig (Shanny) Shanholtzer.
BTW, I also lead and the FA and named the pitch Finger Licker lower down on Donner "
This crack overhangs a tad, and runs between tight hands, hands and big hands, moving into a pod before swinging out over the slight lip and into slabbier territory.
The granite is highly features, with large cubic feldspar crystals on the face... and inside the crack! I highly recommend taping for this one, it is sharp in there and I got chewed up.
Finishes up above the overhang on some belay bolts. From here you can rap, climb Empty Sky (out left) continue up the big corner (not in guide, 5.7ish) or step right onto the face for a route out there.
First Ascent History
"Ron Kauk, a partner I have shared a rope with, did not make the FA of Hungover Hangover as [previously] accredited. I know this because Kim Schmitz and I finished the cleaning of moss and lichens from the crack that Kim and Jim Bridwell had started earlier. Kim, a far superior climber to myself, fell on the crux move at the bulge, and came down. I went up to take a shot at it and was able to make the move and make the FA on the route. Kim followed shortly without falling again. This took place in the early-to-mid '70s.
Kim and Jim have passed on, but I believe you can verify this with the Tahoe locals such as Hansi Stanteiner, Bob Carter, Craig Calonica and others that rememmber the events.
Respectfully,
Craig (Shanny) Shanholtzer.
BTW, I also lead and the FA and named the pitch Finger Licker lower down on Donner "
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