|The Other Place
Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended as the crux occurs as you reach the good hold to the left of the first bolt. These opening moves are interesting and may involve taking both hands off the rock to reach the key hold above. After the initial crux, its smooth sailing on positive jugs and plates the whole way to the top.
This is a popular route for setting up topropes, someone still needs to lead it however.
From the approach trail, follow the cliff to the left, around a corner and up the hill over some boulders. This line begins up hill about 15 feet from the start of D.D.
5 bolts, shuts.
|By Chrissy V|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crux is fun. Climb is maybe not worth repeating, but a good one for learning to lead because of well protected crux (if stick clipped), and cruiser the rest of the way.
|By Caleb Efta|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I thought the crux was pretty hard. It is really balancy, and you have to get your feet high and just hug the rock without any proper holds. Personally, I thought it was a 10a move, with 5.8 sailing above.