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Humphrey's Dome

Routes Sorted
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Carpe Diem T,S 
Central Chimney Direct T 
Evening Light T 
Frog Leg T 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Wench's Dihedral T 

Humphrey's Dome  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 10, 2002
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Description 

Humphrey's Dome is a stately granite formation rising above the burnt trees and boulders of the Buffalo Creek Area. Humprey's sees little traffic on it's 20 routes which consist mostly of cracks and slabs in the 5.10 range. The most climbed route is a clean three-pitch 5.9+ crack on the South Face called Sugar Magnolia that has a beautiful 5.10b hand crack variation to the 1st pitch. Jerry would be proud. The approach is a bit lengthy and involved as it may require hiking a section of the road that is closed due to fire damages but the area is quiet, and not too long a drive from Boulder. There are currently no seasonal wildlife closures but there are Peregrine Falcolns in the area so use caution. There are three or four routes on Humphrey's equiped with old bolts that should be inspected before use. There are no fixed anchors on this formation, walk off either direction from the summit. This area has been pillaged by irresposibly started forest fires from lazy and ignorant campers but the immediate forest around the dome is still alive, please be careful where you put out your joint before you climb Sugar Magnolia.

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Getting There 

Take US 285 to Pine Junction. Turn onto CO Hwy 126 through Pine towards Deckers. Turn South on F.R. #543 just before you reach the town of Buffalo Creek.

Drive or hike FR 543 South for about two miles until you see a large come on the right. Park at Spruce Grove Campground or a pullout on the right just below the dome and follow a faint trail up the hillside to the South Face. This trail is a bit obscure, but the Dome is always in sight.

Per ssp: You can still turn off CO Hwy 126 heading southwest-ish on FR 543, but there is a gate after about 1-2 miles and is closed, i.e. locked. There are also some private property/homes along the way up to that point. There is a 'parking area' just after turning off CO Hwy 126 (aka Buffalo Creek Rd.) and another at the gate, but I have not chanced to park there, since it is close to a residence and there was no signage. Hoof it in or ride your bike. You will enter the Buffalo Creek burn area, surreal scenery that it is now slowly growing back. At one point, by looking over your right shoulder, you will see Humphrey's Dome. Light out for it at that moment. Because of the fire, you can see pretty clearly your destination, but be careful of dead trees, loose soil, etc.

Note: the campgrounds Tramway and Baldy were destroyed from the fire due to subsequent flooding in 1996 and 1997. Buffalo Campground (on FR 550 which intersects FR 543 nearby) is the closest USFS campground. Dispersed camping has not been allowed along FR 543 yet due to erosion issues.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.6 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Humphrey's Dome:
Sugar Magnolia   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Humphrey's Dome

Featured Route For Humphrey's Dome
First pitch. Belay in the wide part.

Sugar Magnolia 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Humphrey's Dome
Sugar Magnolia is the crack system to the right of Central Chimney. It can be seen from the dirt road as you approach the dome. The start is a nice hand crack that eventually leads into a chimney.Pitch 1: (5.9+) Begin to the right of Central Chimney where two cracks form an upside down 'v'. The left crack is a 5.10ish variation and the right crack is the direct start(5.9). Jam this nice hand crack until it goes into a chimney. Follow the chimney as far as you can and belay from any ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Humphrey's Dome
Comments on Humphrey's Dome Add Comment
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By ssp
Jul 1, 2010
Park at Spruce Grove Campground??? Then you have a major hike as that camping area is pretty damn far (read many miles) from here!!!!!
By ssp
Sep 8, 2013
Okay, set ya straight for the Humphrey's Dome.

You can still turn off CO Hwy 126 heading southwest-ish on FR 543, but there is a gate after about 1-2 miles and is closed, i.e. LOCKED. There are also some private property/homes along the way up to that point. There is a 'parking area' just after turning off CO Hwy 126 (aka Buffalo Creek Rd.) and another at the gate, but I have not chanced to park there, since it is close to a residence and there was no signage. Hoof it in or ride your bike. You will enter the Buffalo Creek burn area, surreal scenery, that it is now slowly growing back. At one point, by looking over your right shoulder, you will see Humphrey's Dome. Light out for it at that moment. Because of the fire, you can see pretty clearly your destination, but be careful of dead trees, loose soil, etc.

NOTE: the campgrounds Tramway and Baldy were destroyed from the fire due to subsequent flooding in 1996 and 1997. Buffalo Campground (on FR 550 which intersects FR 543 nearby) is the closest USFS campground. Dispersed camping has not been allowed along FR 543 yet due to erosion issues.