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Shipyard Rock
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All Tuckered Out S 
Humpbacks in Love S 
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 
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Shipyard Rock Variation T 
Spilling Waves S 
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Tuck and Roll S,TR 
Waves S 

Humpbacks in Love 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald
Page Views: 1,351
Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Jul 9, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Bob's Bolts and Anchors

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Description 

The first pitch is solid 5.10. It's crux is getting to the 3rd and 4th bolt on some tiny and very sharp little projections in the black water groove above the small rib of rock. You will have very sore fingers, but it's well worth it. The pitch eases off above the 4th bolt and it's a romp up to the anchor/chain system from there. The second pitch is 5.10d and involves some unusual moves (crux) once you gain the ledge below the large vertical crack/chimney.

Location 

The route is located between the Original Waves and Shark's Breath. It's easy to see the first 3-4 bolts placed just above a small rib in a black water groove that goes up and to the left when you're facing the rock. You can rap from the fixed bolt/chain anchor system at the top of the 1st pitch (5.10) or continue on to the summit for Waves and rap from there.

Protection 

There are at least 6 - 7 bolts on the 1st pitch which ends at a bolt/chain anchor system. A few more bolts are found on the 2nd pitch that leads up and through a large vertical crack/small chimney -- bolts are placed on the smooth rock to the right of the chimney. The 2nd pitch ends at the summit for Waves.


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Good route!
Good route!

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By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 14, 2007

I think Bob called this route Humpbacks in Love.
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is in fact named "Humpbacks in Love" aka "The Breakup Hickey".

It may be wise to take a couple of cams up to 1" and a set of stoppers as there are some clean gear placements on the second pitch.

The F.A. party rated the entire route 5.10d with the first pitch being 5.10a & the second pitch 5.10d.

Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald did the F.A.
By Kiri Namtvedt
Jun 19, 2013

I believe I led part of the first pitch years ago, as an alternate start for Waves. I remember being very unhappy about the placement of the 5th bolt; easy ground but a runout after the first four, and then when you finally reach a feature you can wrap your hands around you can't clip from it but instead must delicately balance along a ramp in order to reach the higher bolt!