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Nice chimney climbing
Perhaps the best looking crack on the wall, from afar. Then you get closer and it gets wider and longer. If you like OffWidth, that's fine, otherwise it starts loosing stars. I happen to be down with it, so it is as good as it looks. Remarkably, the climbing is mostly solid and with the use of some face holds. Not only does it fall short of being a "5.9d" like the book suggests, it may be perhaps even soft at the grade of 5.9 overall.
This is the best-looking left-facing corner on the wall and can easily be spotted from the road on the way in.
A standard rack to 4". Some fist sized cams go back into the crack a way and are quite good to have. Belay and rap as for Sabbatical-carefully watch the ends of your rope unless you have a 70M.
Jun 25, 2012
Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. I thought it was 5.10, but I am an amateur in off-width cracks. I just plunged deep into the chasm and felt pretty solid working my way on up. I built an anchor at the top (to reduce rope drag which would have been horrendous if I went straight over the the chains), as well as clipping the rap anchors, to lower off and top-rope another climber up to clean. 70m rope was fine.
By K Baumgartner
Jun 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Chimney, crack. Rinse, repeat. This is a PHENOMENAL climb. A solid 5.8 but not any harder for a seasoned crack and chimney climber. Built an anchor to the left at the top. Rapped from the shuts to the right. 70m got us down fine.