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Human Oddity 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: (TR) Eric Kohl, FL: Aaron Rough & Vince Kramer
Page Views: 2,994
Submitted By: jared toettcher on Jun 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Human Oddity 5.12a Auburn. One of the, if not THE...

Auburn Quarry Open Daily 'til Sundown! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To find this climb, look into Horseshoe Canyon. You will see bolted routes on the right-hand wall (extending back towards the "horseshoe"). This climb follows the leftmost set of bolts on that wall.This climb has a little bit of everything. Start with an easy jug haul to a roof section involving an interesting, slopey hole. Continue, and enjoy a slabby/crimpy section followed by more vertical and overhung fun.There are primarily two difficult sections on this climb: the roof leading from the 3rd to 4th bolt, and the section from the 7th to 8th bolt. Footwork is very key.As is the case with many Auburn climbs (especially those in Horseshoe Canyon), there are some places where the rock is quite loose. Be careful!

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.


Photos of Human Oddity Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Horniak on the quarry classic, Human Oddity .12-
Josh Horniak on the quarry classic, Human Oddity ....
Quarry classic, Human Oddity .12-, Horseshoe Canyon
Quarry classic, Human Oddity .12-, Horseshoe Canyo...

Comments on Human Oddity Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2014
By Rough
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Initial anchors and TR ascent FA by Eric Kohl.
By Rough
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I would agree the crux sequence in and of itself is probably only 11c, however, this is an endurance route that isn't in the bag till you clip the chains. Given the endurance pump, I feel comfortable calling this thing 12a. I have climbed many 12as easier than this route, particularly short bouldery ones. I have power, I suck at endurance, maybe the opposite is true of you?
By booster
Oct 29, 2012

I deleted my comment regarding the grade, forgive the knee jerk spray. This was the first and only climb we got on. So, I have nothing to compare it to at the area. Great route though!
By Cave Man McElroy
From: auburn
Feb 5, 2013

One of the best climbs in auburn. Cool Sequence x 2
By mike carville
Mar 27, 2013

really good line. seemed like it had 2 cruxes - low and then high.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Mar 31, 2013

agreed, first overhanging lip and the cross over crimpy section at the top IMO. super fun one of the best if not the best route at auburn
By Caliza
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Awesome line, reminds me a Mayhem Cove, definitely recommend it but no way is this a 12a. Crux is 11c and with a no-hands rest in the middle, not an endurance route and can fully recover from first crux. Top is a lil cruxy but no harder than 11a after a great rest. If the rest wasn't there I could see it going at 11d but not with the bomber rest in the middle. Just have to trust your feet and you can sail through it. Great route.
By Vince Sugrue
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I get the vibe that people who don't normally climb 12a would call this a 12a. In my opinion, comparing this to all of the other Bay Area Region 12a's, it isn't harder than an 11c. I got on it hoping to get a nice warmup out of it, and ended up getting the onsight. Considering my highest onsight grade was 11a prior to this, I feel confident in saying it is 11c. Great route, absolutely had a blast on it. But please, don't disrespect the 12a grade by throwing this gem in there.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 29, 2013

i do not onsight .12a and i felt this was a solid .11c as well, but.. like Aaron has stated it definitely is an endurance route, im not confident enough to say its not a .12a cus i dont climb that regularly, but i will say this was a good onsight (with beta!!) for me who is breaking into the .11+/.12-
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 29, 2013

No such thing as an onsight with beta.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 29, 2013

^^
well then whatever you would call it then
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I got the onsight without beta. Didn't even know what route it was.

It's soft for 5.12, but so is almost everything else at Auburn so considering, it feels about right.
By Rough
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I will say what I have told several other people: When you go to Human Oddity, look slightly under the title of the route, it is says "You & This Route". Right below that is "Your Rating" and a blue text that says "change". I would recommend selecting the grade you feel is most appropriate and then feeling warm and special for being part of the process of determining a consensus. Please do this only after you onsight/redpoint it.

Climbing is subjective, simply put. My strengths are different than yours etc. I am not a gym climber, never had been, but Human Oddity is pretty close in nature to that style, so I would not be surprised to see the new crop of gym-raised climbers to cruise this line. It is what it is. To me, it doesn't change the quality of the route if it ends up consensus 12a or 11c.

As for the comment about .. "those who don't climb 12s often...", I have onsighted or redpointed over 50 12s up to 12d from pretty much every state in the west out to Colorado and New Mexico. There were plenty of routes I felt were soft, and plenty I felt were sandbagged. These include routes at pretty much every area in SoCal and most major areas in NorCal, Owens, Bword, Jailhouse, other Table Mtn crags, Cave Rock, Trinity Aretes, Natural Bridges, The Shredding, Smith Rocks, VRG and most other St George areas, Redrocks, Charleston, Rifle, Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, Jack's, The Asylum, and Enchanted Tower to name a few.

I think the consensus grade is a pretty cool feature if used. But no, it isn't as cool as beating your chest in the comments section.
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 29, 2013

thanks aaron for chiming in, i hope my comment wasnt one of the ones that was taken as spray, and if it was i appologize. no doubt this route is the best of the sac area, plus that is the best answer to any of the comments on here!
By Rough
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

No worries Brennen. I didn't necessarily see any of the comments as spray. Just wanted to suggest using the designed feature to help understand consensus for the grade. For me to change the grade here and in the guide is a matter of seconds, but I will only do that after a consensus is reached. As of now there are four ratings: 12a x 3, 11c x 1. Doesn't seem enough to warrant changing anything as of yet.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 29, 2013

Worth considering is that as these climbs get more traffic they feel easier. Much of the loose rock has cleaned up, and every hold is now caked in chalk. I last did Human in October, and all the subtle but easily visible feet had tick marks on them. I brushed the route on my way down but I'm sure it's all back. Much different than the first time I was on the route.

Also worth noting is that there are 2 ways to do the second half of the route. Straight up the bolt line is a shade harder and has a couple cool thin moves. If you go out left onto the juggy sidepull rail, reaching well right to clip, it is substantially easier. A letter? Who knows.
By Rough
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great points Dave and ones that are most likely attributing to some of the feeling in differences. Everything is a little more pumpy when they rock quality is in question. I know you know :)
By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Apr 29, 2013

as per the tic mark comment, you can see every hold on the as you walk into the cliffs area, basically mapped out for ya like a gym. doesnt look like anyone has hit it with a brush for some time, on the first under-cling move, i nearly slipped off due to an absurd amount of chalk being on that thing!
By Caliza
May 11, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Like I mentioned before, I think it's an awesome line. It climbs very well with lots of fun movements and definitely would recommend the route to people if they happened to be in the area. It seems like now there are two 5.11c suggestions with the three 5.12a suggestions. I know a lot of people like to say that grades shouldn't matter; that it should be about the climb itself, but to me that's like saying that in swimming or running time shouldn't matter. In the aforementioned events the numerical value is associated with time and in climbing with difficulty, regardless of subjectivity. I have done a lot of climbing internationally on many different styles of rock. I just got back from a climbing trip in Spain, and as far as difficulty is concerned, Human Oddity is not harder than any 5.11c and definitely 5.11d in my subjective opinion that I did over there. It's a great route but no way 12a in my humble opinion. Too short with a great rest to be an endurance route and not cruxy enough for the suggested grade.
By Rough
May 11, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Caliza, sounds good. It will be interesting to watch the consensus develop on this as more people climb it.
By Steve Montesanto
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Awesome route. Definitely the best in the quarry at that level. Well bolted.

Really liked the crux move down low in a technical sense. The feet are insecure as you do it. Upper crux still felt enduro even with the rest.

Not 12a IMHO since I'm not in shape and got it clean 2nd try. When I was in shape I usually got 12a's 2nd or 3rd try. 11c/d seems about right.

Btw, I counted 10 bolts.....not 9.
By AES
Nov 19, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Fantastic route! Very diverse climbing makes this one a challenge - powerful early crux with some technical moves later on. Weighing the difficulty of the crux sequences against the very welcome full rest midway through, I would call this an .11d

Regardless of the consensus on difficulty, it seems that there is an obvious consensus on quality. This is my favorite route at Auburn by far. The roof-hole is totally badass, and the whole route is very well protected, so definitely worth a good burn for those looking for harder projects.
By JSlack
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route! Definitely the best thing we got on at ASRA.

The jug to the left of the sloping hole (1st crux) is now gone. A football-sized block came down while my buddy was pulling on it. It makes that sequence a bit harder, but the route is still pretty soft at 12a.
By Renaud
From: San Mateo, CA
Mar 23, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

It was my first time at the Quarry and this route was my favorite of the day by far. I liked the variety between the steep sections on good holds and the technical balancy moves on thin crimps. The rock was also surprisingly clean and solid compared to other nearby routes.
I think it's pretty easy to screw up the sequence at the first roof so I could see the onsight being in the 11d/12a range.

In any case and regardless of the grade it's a great route and a must-do for the area.