||Ice, 2 pitches, 140'
|Consensus: ||WI2+ [details]|
|FA: ||Sean Parent, Guy Lacelle|
|Page Views: ||442|
|Submitted By: ||Steve M on Aug 16, 2012|
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View from the top. The ice between the photograph...
Guidebook calls this 4 pitches, but really there's 2 with a lot of steep walking in between. P1 is 25 or 30 meters (guidebooks call it 2+ but it's always seemed more like 3 to me) go up and belay off slings in the trees to the right. Slog up through the snow about 50 meters to the base of the next real ice and find a nice place to belay. Next pitch (what I'd consider P2) is about 30 meters of 2+ and is often capped by some crazy wind-blown ice formations. Belay off more slings in the trees.
This is a super fun climb to do if you're feeling pumped and just want some fun mellow climbing. The view from the top is great and depending on wind direction you can either escape the wind or be beaten up by it as it screams up the gully. Climb is always shaded so it should be good late season.
Just North (climbers left) of Mellow Yellow
Fist full of screws, a couple of single and double runners can be handy.
Looking up at the meat of the 2nd pitch
Looking down the 3rd class pitch in the middle.