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Hugo's Horror Revisited 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: mike lee
Page Views: 1,349
Submitted By: burlap submariner on Jul 24, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Hugo's Horror (approx.) and climb Right of Hugo's

Description 

Hugo's is a new take on an older nebulous line that was originally done by hugo stadmuller. Locate the prominent toe of rock that falls just shy of the rr tracks and hike up hill, at the toe of the cliff you will see the wet streak that is the winter route cinema gully, walk climbers right about 25 feet uphill until you see a bolt on a slab.

1. climb a very easy slab to a tree ledge passing a couple bolts on the way.
2. behind the tree ledge there is a small but short head wall, climb this on gear and meander your way up the slab above.
3. follow a slab to some steeper overlaps and shallow corners picking the path of cleanest rock and following bolts and the occasional gear placement.
4. climb steeper rock again following bolts to a couple tricky but well protected moves to the top of the lower teir.

Protection 

this route is a fine example of the term "mixed" there are bolts just when you need them and gear in any spot that it could be placed naturally.
There are two bolt anchors at all the pitches exept for the first pitch (tree ledge with slings)


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By jcomeau2
Jul 29, 2011

can this routre be done with a 50 meter rope??
By Chris Bartram
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 24, 2012

what gear do you need for this climb Standard rack? Decent options?
By Jeremy A
From: NH
May 16, 2012

Hey there Chris, I used a standard rack. Mostly bolted pitches(Not sport by any means)/bolt anchors. I did not carry any large gear. Up to a #2 BD. Most parties rap w/ 2 ropes (60m). Also to not spit to much beta.."Meander" is the key word for this route. Enjoy.
By Bob A
Nov 13, 2012

I did this route yesterday 11-12-12.
Fun little adventure.

To echo what Jeremy said:
I would bring a small rack to #1 bd (we only used up to a .75).You will need two ropes to get off(4 double rope raps).
I am not sure but would almost bet that 50 meter ropes will NOT get you to the belays (maybe the first?).All pitches seem to be around 180 ft or so.

I did this route again yesterday 6-21-14. You will need 60 meter ropes for all pitches.
By Robert Hall
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I did this route a couple of times, the 2nd time we took a 50m 8mm "pull down" and this did work....but only with a foot or two to spare on one or two of the raps, so I think leading it with a 50m is out of the question. I think the rating was originally "5.5 - 5.6" and I would say "5.6 - 5.7" is more like it, especially because the crux (at least what I thought was the crux, on the 3rd pitch) is rather run-out, with the bolt 15-20 feet below you. Perhaps another bolt should be added here? Otherwise, a very nice route, fun climb. Too bad the rock from the top dbl bolt anchors to the Big Tree Ledge is pretty mossy.

There's an equally nice "new" climb whose line is bolted (with some trad) that starts about 80 feet to the right (i.e. a few feet left of Across the Universe). This climbs the "Across" overlap at its left end to a dbl bolt belay. The climb then passes the 3-4ft "super white flake" easily seen from the road, and continues on a line about 40 feet right of "Hugo's". Last pitch ends at a dbl bolt anchor below the Big Tree Ledge.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 13, 2014

i like burlaps protection description "mixed" kinda says it all.