Huffy is a good, hard rock climb - gymnastic, pumpy, and a lot of fun. The rock, on the other hand, is not that good. One must ignore some sand, cobwebs, and creaky blocks to appreciate Huffy's aesthetic movement on a steep, limestone wall.
Begin with an opening boulder problem on pinches to technical moves in steepening rock. Pull out a short roof and do the second (and slightly more difficult) boulder problem on crimps and slopers. Keep the pump in check as you move into the high, dynamic crux on bad sidepulls. Clip the chains and lower - 30 feet out from the wall and conveniently right onto the trail.
As to the rock quality, all the bolts and holds (that I used) are on solid rock. Some holds required extensive brushing. There were two reinforced holds - one ripped off with little effort on my part. The other one seems solid and is still in place, but it doesn't seem useful. So again, the rock is a bit chossy, but the route is a worthwhile challenge.
There are two routes on the main, steep part of the Roof area. Huffy is the left one. From the main trail, scramble up a vague, loose trail through bushes to the wall and walk about twenty feet left to a belay area. Start by stepping on some detached blocks wedged against the wall.
9 bolts to chain anchors. Stick clip for 2nd bolt (skip 1st bolt to mitigate rope drag). Long draw for bolt #8 or skip it and risk a safe but very long fall off the top of the crux. Knee pad if that's your thing.
|By Erik Durgin|
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
Maybe I'm too generous with my stars, but I think this route is so much fun! One of the longest consistently steep routes in DGO. Three powerful boulder problems separated by steep juggy climbing.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the choss was quite minimal. Only the upper boulder problem had an abundance of loose rock on it, which I did my best to get rid of and it's now pretty solid. Really, I think it just needs a good scrubbin' at the beginning of every summer due to a winter of seeping.
I highly recommend it to anyone who thinks the Golf Wall isn't quite long enough!
|By Ben Griffin|
From: Durango, CO
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c
There is one glued on hold at the upper crux that will break, but that hold is not crucial to the route.