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 ADVANCED
The Egg
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cracked Egg T 
Go Van Gogh T 
Groovin' T 
Huevos Rancheros T,TR 
Jesus or Jeopardy S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leggo My Eggo S 
Lowe Blow T 
Old Peculier T 
Over Easy T 
Runnel Chunnel T 
Variety Delight T 
Windjammer T 

Huevos Rancheros 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Webster, Patenaude, Ellison '80
Page Views: 1,751
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Sep 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Leggo My Eggo 2) Variety Delight 3) Just Say ...

Description 

Huevos Rancheros is the second bolt line to the right of Variety Delight (obvious splitter groove up the center of the Egg). It is a long way between bolts.

You can either start this at the starting flake of Groovin', or start at Variety Delight and traverse right into the route. The first bolt is way up there, but an alien could be placed when passing the 5.6 groove of Lowe Blowe. Crux is right at the first bolt, then lots of incut features lead to the top. Angle left at the top to use the anchors of Variety Delight.

Two rope rappel to get off. This route can also be TRed after climbing Variety Delight.

Protection 

3 bolts, yellow or red alien


Photos of Huevos Rancheros Slideshow Add Photo
Leaving the start of Groovin' onto Huevos Ranchero...
Leaving the start of Groovin' onto Huevos Ranchero...
Across Lowe Blow up Huevos Rancheros.  LeAnn
Across Lowe Blow up Huevos Rancheros. LeAnn

Comments on Huevos Rancheros Add Comment
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By M Hansen
Jul 14, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As a warning ... it is easy to miss the 1st bolt when starting up from Groovin' due to the indordinate number of bolts at the start of the new bolted line. The first bolt of Huevos Rancheros almost appears to be a part of the new route when looking over from the trough on Lowe Blowe.

Anecdote: I cruised up it earlier this spring and zipped right past the first bolt without clipping it. I mistakingly thought it was part of the new route out left. It was a long way(!) up to that 2nd bolt. Felt more so with just a TCU down below in the Lowe Blowe trough.
By Barry52
Dec 9, 2009

I hope that the 2nd bolt was replaced. It was a scary one, a spinner, that looked like it would come out if you sneezed too hard. Great climb!! One of my first .7 leads. Pucker factor for me, then, was a 10+.
By Courtney Pace
Apr 11, 2013

Definitely not R. Placing a #3 in the lowe blowe trough keeps it safe. Between bolts 1&2 wasn't much further than the runouts on leggo.
By Ben Folsom
Apr 11, 2013

It used to be R before it was retrobolted and called a different name....... "Just say no to Crack".
By Courtney Pace
Jul 2, 2013

Ben, just ignore the shiny bolts to the left and stick to the original line. No different than it was in the 80s