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Routes in Downclimb/Sentinel Pass
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East Face/Downclimb T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Huecool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Upclimb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Face/Downclimb aka West Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony B., solo, 3/12/15 |
| Page Views: | 670 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Huecool is a short boulder problem (V0 = 5.10+?) on small huecos to a longer pitch (5.6-5.7?) through some body-sized huecos.
Start on a 2-finger pocket and poor feet on an overhang at the base, moving up and right to your choice of so-so holds, then up onto a small ledge. This V0 crux is protected by a spotter. From there, move up and left, then back right on big jugs to the huge hueco. Move out right through the hueco and over the overhang above, then up and over in an offwidth to get established on another ledge. Reach the East Face slab via a low angle chimney or a left-facing corner further West of there. From the East Face, the summit is only a few meters away.
Start on a 2-finger pocket and poor feet on an overhang at the base, moving up and right to your choice of so-so holds, then up onto a small ledge. This V0 crux is protected by a spotter. From there, move up and left, then back right on big jugs to the huge hueco. Move out right through the hueco and over the overhang above, then up and over in an offwidth to get established on another ledge. Reach the East Face slab via a low angle chimney or a left-facing corner further West of there. From the East Face, the summit is only a few meters away.
Location
From the West Face/chimney, come back to the south about 20' and look upward to a huge body-sized hueco/impression. Look back down to the base below that to find a few 2-finger pockets. Start there on the slight overhang.
Protection
I soloed the route and did not place protection. Some is available, certainly, but it's not always going to be nearby or readily available. The protection down low is a spotter for maybe 4-5' at the bottom for the crux boulder problem.
To descend, you downclimb the East Face (5.4, **).
To descend, you downclimb the East Face (5.4, **).
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