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BETA PHOTO: hueco thanks start, compared to other routes on br...
Hueco Thanks climbs the left of two prominent crack/chimney systems in the Sand Castle face. It's a gentle trad romp to the summit of the sand castle subsidiary face, with an easy single-rap descent down Ten Minute Shift.
p1) start on the far left side of the Armatron slab. 3rd class a few yards left to a stance in a dish and belay there. climb left and up through intricate routefinding to the chimney. belay at a good stance at the bush. ~170', ~5.7
Note: you can do a more aesthetic, and more direct, first pitch by starting up the first pitch of Sand Castle and stepping left to the bush/chimney belay, but it is distinctly harder.
p2) chimney up, past the overhang (route crux), and continue up the crack to belay beneath an alcove. ~120', ~5.7
p3) stem up the steep alcove and follow the crack up a juggy hueco'd pitch to the top. belay easiest with thin-hand size cams. ~160', ~5.7
Descent: walk climber's left along the ledge to the small pine tree and a bolt. five short single rope rappels down Ten Minute Shift take you to the ground. 50m rope ok for the rappels.
Rack: double nuts, lots of slings, and single green alien to #3 camalot.
BETA PHOTO: the sand castle face
BETA PHOTO: routes on the right side of the brownstone wall
Joanne on the FA, below the crux. And yes, all i g...
From: las vegas, NV
Jan 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
I might put it more like "tread gently to the summit of the Sandcastle subsidiary face," which we did not do, eschewing most of the 3rd pitch due to rock quality. Would rather have had double cams. The recommended double nuts came in more handily on our descent.
By Stone Nude
Apr 7, 2013
Shit rock. You've been warned, enjoy at your own risk.