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Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
FA: John Hudson, 1965
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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at the "secret" move... shhhhhhh

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Description 

Under-cling up left until you can reach up right over the roof.

There are two cruxes. The first one is the embarrassment of flailing and swinging into innocent passers-by. The second is knowing how to stop the endless line of not-so-innocent passers-by who ask for a try.

Life is short, so throw as many heel hooks as you can.


Location 

This is the giant overhang just past the Uberfall, and right before the Suzie A block. It starts right behind the big rescue equipment box.


Protection 

This route is most commonly top-roped. As the name suggests, it can be bouldered. Taller stuff has been, but I wouldn't want to fall off near the top.

For leading, there is a fixed pin right before the lip of the roof, and other gear is available (can be strenuous to place).

It is important to consider the effects of either a fall or the swing from TR into passing foot traffic.