If you are searching for a good bolted moderate, this one is worth coming to the Head Wall to do. Climb up a crack and make a long traverse left along a horizontal crack to reach the white arete (crux). When doing the traverse, you can take the high road or the low road, without changing the grade. At the arete, climb up and gain a stance on the left side. Climb up the left side of the arete to reach the anchors.
From the Right Side of the head wall, continue down stream along the cliff line, following the trail up hill a bit. Start on a ledge to the left of a large tree and to the left of the obvious bolted offwidth (China Crisis, 5.11b).
5 bolts, shuts.
The Hubba Bubba traverse on TR.
|By John Groh|
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The guide says this is supposedly the best 5.9 in Bubba City, but neither I nor my climbing partner found it much fun. Half of it is more of a traverse than a climb, and the climbing on the arette isn't really anything special...
|By Scott Gilliam|
From: Raleigh, NC
Jul 21, 2013
Gotta say I agree with J_C_G. As a mixed route, protected by gear and only one or two bolts, this would have been very interesting. As a sport route, it's not much fun.
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 2, 2014
One word: Contrived.