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how's the climbing around Austin, Texas?
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By theresa van straten
Oct 1, 2010

My husband and I are looking to take a job in Temple, Tx and was wondering about the climbing around Austin area. Sport, and trad, single to mult-pitch, quality of rock, quanitiy of rock..... thanks for your response.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2010
Bocan

It's decent with a pretty big community of really nice people. You've got the greenbelt in Autsin which is all single pitch limestone sport and a little bouldering (little little trad). Reimer's ranch has got alot of hard limestone sport. Enchanted Rock is a bit of a drive, but lots of sport and trad on pink granite. Pace Bend for some water soloing...

Not bad at all considering it is Texas...no offense to anyone!!

www.erockonline.com/guidebooks.htm

www.spadout.com/wiki/index.php/Austin,_Texas_Rock_Climbing

mountainproject.com/v/texas/105835804

And of course their is the Mighty Hank Caylor!! :o)


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Oct 1, 2010
Me, of course

There have been numerous articles about Austin area climbing in the mags this last year. Lot's of river cave bouldering and DWS, plenty of other great looking stuff. There's probably not a better place for climbers to actually LIVE in TX.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 1, 2010
You stay away from mah pig!

Also, if you're in Temple, you're near Roger's Park, which is probably the best bouldering in Central Texas. As mentioned above, Enchanted Rock and Reimers are suitable day trips for you. Within shot for weekends would be the Wichitas in OK, NW Arkansas, and even Potrero Chico in Mexico, once you get comfortable with the driving.

That said, I think that Texas climbing is not as good as the disproportional coverage in magazines makes it out to be (Jeff Jackson is a Texas native, so that might have something to do with all the press it gets). It has lots of nice local areas, but no world class climbing (Hueco is not in Texas, in case you're wondering), and you'll definitely be making the drive 12 hours east or 12 hours west for your fix of really good rock.

I'll never forget the look on the face of a couple Colorado climbers I met at Reimers, who had been convinced by a couple overly promotional Austinites to drive from Hueco Tanks to Reimers for the "awesome limestone." Disappointed would be putting it mildly.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 1, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Theresa, send me an e-mail and I can introduce you to some climbers in Austin that you and your husband might like to climb with, especially when going to Potrero Chico.

Here is a snarky insider's blog for the Austin scene:

[sadly, it is now gone.]


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By Zach Wahrer
From Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 1, 2010
Unknown problem at Hueco.

ATX has some good local climbing, and I would agree with most of what has been mentioned. Just be ready for (with very little exception) all the routes to be short. If you are into real multi-pitch, this is obviously not the place to go.

E-Rock is really good for trad and "bolted" trad, lots of slab, and some descent cracks. Most of it is all really short, although there are a few 300' climbs on the backside of the Main dome (slab).

Reimers, while not on par with a place like the Red, definitely has some good sport climbing, but once again, its all short, mostly in the 30-40' range. Monster Rock is another location close to ATX that is similar to Reimers.

Roger's, as previously mentioned, is a great place for bouldering. There are also several smaller bouldering areas scattered around ATX and points north. "Texas Limestone Bouldering" by Jeff Jackson, lists a lot of the more obscure locations.

If you do make the move, just be prepared to DRIVE, because everything is so spread out. That's what I have to do every weekend. It sucks, but its better than no climbing at all. :-(


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By trippjones
From Austin, TX
Mar 26, 2013

hueco tanks is in texas. I thoughtd id clear that up.


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Mar 26, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

camhead wrote:
I'll never forget the look on the face of a couple Colorado climbers I met at Reimers, who had been convinced by a couple overly promotional Austinites to drive from Hueco Tanks to Reimers for the "awesome limestone." Disappointed would be putting it mildly.


Recently a couple of my friends headed to the Austin area to visit some family, they asked me if I knew of any good climbing in the area, so I told them that I had heard Reimers was good and that they might want to check it out. After they got back I asked them how it was, and I think that their experiance was very similar to those Colorado climbers that you met.


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By Chris Vinson
Apr 3, 2013

Rock and Ice

If you guys only knew...you'd stay in Colorado, its better there!


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