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 ADVANCED
Primitive Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarian TR 
Cam Shaft T,TR 
Death Scream T,TR 
Evolution TR 
Failing Fingers T,TR 
Hot Flash T,TR 
Huff and Puff TR 
Missing Link TR 
Old World Monkey TR 
Primitive Man T,TR 

Old World Monkey 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on May 6, 2011

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Sebastian in the corner system

Description 

Five feet right of Death Scream, go straight up. Once you make it to the roof systems, enter the corner system to the climber's right rather than left as you would for Death Scream. Enter this crux section and hope that you find some holds to get through it. They are there, you just have to find them. There are some cool side-pulls and crimps to be found. Make some big moves from here and go straight up.

Location 

A bit to the right of Death Scream.

Protection 

Top rope most likely. A vertical crack at the top of the cliff makes for good anchoring (takes cams from 0.5 - 3 Camalot or passive pro.) This crack is approximately 10 feet back from the edge.


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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
May 9, 2011

Looks cool. I've been spying that line for years thinking it would be a nice addition to this buttress.
By Pete Hunt
May 11, 2011

Hey Doug,

I think it's a cool route and worth doing. It's a bit licheny higher up, but with a little bit of traffic it should clean up. Let me know what you think if you get on it, and I'd be curious about any rating input as well.