how warm is too warm?

So the obvious answer would be above freezing, but some how I think there might be more to it than that. I'm new to ice climbing so be gentle MP. Another question, whats the warmest temperature you have climbed ice in? Thanks for any input.

Pooler

I've left Poughkeepsie at 74 F and two hours later been on fat solid ice in the Catskills.

It's more a function of the amount of direct sunshine and the weather history than the current temp that makes ice "done for the year". For thin south-facing routes it might only take a few sunny 40F days to shut the action down. Other areas can last weeks longer if: there's no rain, no sun, nights are cool, running water doesn't overrun the ice.

In general, stay away from steep ice if things are questionable. Steep ice falls down dramatically. OTOH a low angle slab may well melt in place and you can chase the season to the very end.

Sun/heat rotted ice is weak and deserves special caution re. screws and how deeply your tools must penetrate. Even if it re-freezes, rotted ice has changed its grain and can be remarkably weak.

Summary - no simple answer.

thanks Gunkiemike I figured as much it does really seem to boil down to a case by case basis. Any pointers?

Thanks for the genuine response

Pooler

pooler,

Sun/shade,aspect(north facing?),waterproofedness of your outerwear,and chutzpah are all to be considered.
All things considered you should be alright at Deep Notch on Saturday. The hearty approach builds cardio.