I usually leave the ends untied because I find that less then half of what i use my cord for is anchor building, and of that percentage a lot of the times I will make an equalette instead of pre-equalized anchor. i find it just saves time to not have to untie a knot every time I want to use it, but I guess it boils down to intended use and personal preference.
I have a retardedly long 26 foot cordolette I keep permatied with a triple fishermans. I have used that method for 12 years and have yet to need anything longer that required me to untie it. If I need shorter just clove hith the excess out of the way.
"-Me and my partners never swap leads, we normally agree that 1 person will lead the climb"... ^^^ What's the reasoning behind that one?...
I am a new leader so I used to always follow a mentor or more seasoned climber, once I got a rack they started following me checking my placements and giving constructive feedback. Being at the gunks and being short pitches & climbs usually we get a bunch of climbs in in a day and we'll both pick a few climbs to lead and lead the ones we chose and follow the other on theirs. We'll probably start swinging leads more often but I have yet to swap leads mid-climb
If you know 3 usable knots to tie a cordelette with why do you feel the need to ask redundant questions on mp and waste forum space? Using the rope as your anchor is bomb (and should be adopted by most climbers in my opinion... ) A patagonia knot; Overhand knot on a bite with a backup Knot is an quick and easy one to tie and untie giving you the freedom to use the full length of the cord in a pinch (a situation that the only bomber gear you can get is very spread out and a looped 20ft cord won't cut it.)
If you know 3 usable knots to tie a cordelette with why do you feel the need to ask redundant questions on mp and waste forum space? Using the rope as your anchor is bomb (and should be adopted by most climbers in my opinion... )
As I stated in the op I wanted advantages and disadvantages of each and also stating I dont use the rope or plan on frequently doing so
Robbie Brown wrote:
Also welded knots (ones you never untie) are considerably weaker than newly tied ones. This has been the cause of many climbing related deaths.