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How to you tie your cordelette?
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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Feb 13, 2013

Rob Davis wrote:
different question: how do you store your cord during climbs? I feel like when I climb with one it turns into a mess.


mountainproject.com/v/racking-your-cordelette/106319182#a_10>>>


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Feb 13, 2013
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+1 for leave it untied and use flat overhand if you need a loop - back it up.


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By Jared Garfield
Feb 13, 2013
Romancing the Stone

I usually leave the ends untied because I find that less then half of what i use my cord for is anchor building, and of that percentage a lot of the times I will make an equalette instead of pre-equalized anchor. i find it just saves time to not have to untie a knot every time I want to use it, but I guess it boils down to intended use and personal preference.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 13, 2013

Rarely carry one, but when I do:

Double fisherman's in 7mm perlon.


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By Larry S
Feb 13, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

Rob Davis wrote:
different question: how do you store your cord during climbs? I feel like when I climb with one it turns into a mess.


Another thread on this too Cordolette Racking


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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Feb 13, 2013

I have a retardedly long 26 foot cordolette I keep permatied with a triple fishermans. I have used that method for 12 years and have yet to need anything longer that required me to untie it. If I need shorter just clove hith the excess out of the way.


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 13, 2013

Locker wrote:
"-Me and my partners never swap leads, we normally agree that 1 person will lead the climb"... ^^^ What's the reasoning behind that one?...



I am a new leader so I used to always follow a mentor or more seasoned climber, once I got a rack they started following me checking my placements and giving constructive feedback. Being at the gunks and being short pitches & climbs usually we get a bunch of climbs in in a day and we'll both pick a few climbs to lead and lead the ones we chose and follow the other on theirs. We'll probably start swinging leads more often but I have yet to swap leads mid-climb


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By Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 13, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR

If you know 3 usable knots to tie a cordelette with why do you feel the need to ask redundant questions on mp and waste forum space? Using the rope as your anchor is bomb (and should be adopted by most climbers in my opinion... ) A patagonia knot; Overhand knot on a bite with a backup Knot is an quick and easy one to tie and untie giving you the freedom to use the full length of the cord in a pinch (a situation that the only bomber gear you can get is very spread out and a looped 20ft cord won't cut it.)


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By Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 13, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR

Also welded knots (ones you never untie) are considerably weaker than newly tied ones. This has been the cause of many climbing related deaths.


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By jake 356
From worcester
Feb 14, 2013

Always carry one twisted and clipped on th back of my harness. Figure eight I believe Flemish finish on both sides


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By TWK
Feb 14, 2013

Robbie Brown wrote:
why do you feel the need to ask redundant questions on mp and waste forum space?


Yeah, you never know when we'll run out of zeroes and ones . . .


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Feb 14, 2013

Robbie Brown wrote:
If you know 3 usable knots to tie a cordelette with why do you feel the need to ask redundant questions on mp and waste forum space? Using the rope as your anchor is bomb (and should be adopted by most climbers in my opinion... )


As I stated in the op I wanted advantages and disadvantages of each and also stating I dont use the rope or plan on frequently doing so



Robbie Brown wrote:
Also welded knots (ones you never untie) are considerably weaker than newly tied ones. This has been the cause of many climbing related deaths.


I was not aware of that do you have any links?


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By wivanoff
Feb 14, 2013
High Exposure

Usually anchor with the rope at the Gunks. (double ropes, actually)

But, when I do use a cord it's 7mm perlon with a double fisherman's.

I try to keep the legs equal length since the shortest leg will see higher load. When I need to extend a leg, I use a less stretchy Dyneema sling instead of untying my cord and using only one strand.


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