Mountain Project Logo

How to tie in?

Original Post
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

When you tie your figure eight follow through onto your harness, do you start by threading the rope down from the top tie-in point to the bottom tie-in point OR do you thread up from the bottom tie-in point to the top tie-in point?

Brian Pisani · · Duluth, Minnesota · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 30

I personally thread bottom to top. But it's personal preference and the main thing is to make sure you are through both tie in points.

Danger-Russ Gordon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

all the manufacturer instructions ive seen say feed up from the bottom.

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

I don't see how it makes any difference whatsoever. Fwiw I go through the bottom tie in first, but you are really accomplishing the same thing either way.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Nathanael wrote:When you tie your figure eight follow through onto your harness, do you start by threading the rope down from the top tie-in point to the bottom tie-in point OR do you thread up from the bottom tie-in point to the top tie-in point?
I always do top down

Despite all the double checks, ive had and seen folks only tie into one point ... Its a myth that double checks will always catch you

If you go top down youll be tied into the upper point, which will still keep u upright

If you go bottom up, you may flip if ur only tied into the lower point ... This would be bad

Ive seen this happen despite the "checks"
gio92 Giovannetti · · Bend, OR · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

I go bottom up mostly because I think the knot is easier to follow through then. To bearbreeder's point, while that is a concern I think that threading up will make you thread the bottom loop and then it is easy to see that you've threaded the top one as well. It would be awkward to tie your knot without the top threaded.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
bearbreeder wrote: Despite all the double checks, ive had and seen folks only tie into one point ... Its a myth that double checks will always catch you
My experiences are quite different. I've never had a double check fail. Hence, double checks always work. See, wasn't that a scientific observation?

To the OP - I go bottom->top. My rationale - it is easier to see how the rope is threaded when it gets threaded from the bottom up.
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Well I'm a top->down kind of guy myself based on the same logic as bearbreeder and (mostly) habit. I'm a little disappointed at the lack of
"YER GONNA DIE"
"If you have to ask then you shouldn't be doing this yet"
"Hire a certified guide"

In Re: to Pavel, I got my rope and tried these both, I see that with the knot on the right if you tie it loosely and then weight it there will be one strand that doesn't tighten fully, but the knot itself does tighten and should be completely safe. What exactly does it mean to be "a s@*t", I'm not familiar with that term.

Loose

Tightened

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Pavel Burov wrote:
yea, no......
Eric LaRoche · · West Swanzey, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

I do bottom first then top then loop back down and do it again. I find this more comfortable since it basically cinches the to tie in points together from the start instead of just when you weight or fall so you can keep the jewels out of the way.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153
bearbreeder wrote: I always do top down Despite all the double checks, ive had and seen folks only tie into one point ... Its a myth that double checks will always catch you If you go top down youll be tied into the upper point, which will still keep u upright If you go bottom up, you may flip if ur only tied into the lower point ... This would be bad Ive seen this happen despite the "checks"
Good point. I've always gone bottom up but I like this rationale.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Pavel Burov wrote:
Both of those knot versions can be tied regardless of how the harness is threaded.

Anyway, I thread from down to up if using the bowline and up to down if using the figure eight. But really, you can use either.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
bearbreeder wrote: Its a myth that double checks will always catch you
Ha, it's questionable if they even catch a mistake half the time. Depends on your partner. In the gym, whenever I climb with a new partner, I typically like to test them by tying in with the bowline and asking 'does my figure eight look good?' You might be surprised how many people say yes...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "How to tie in?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started