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By berl
From Oregon
Oct 29, 2011

hey- REI employees are very helpful in helping customers choose between all those different 'Life is Good' products.


I rec'd the 'local climbing shop' in hopes that someone could help the OP with gear sizes for local climbs at his level. but I'm nowhere near Henderson, Nevada- maybe there aren't any helpful gear shops there.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Oct 30, 2011

Tom Hanson wrote:
Berl wrote: "a trip to a local climbing shop is probably even better than the internet." Berl, what climbing shop do you work for on commission? Better yet, send him to REI to get their advice. Seriously?


Maybe he just lives in the wrong town. A lot of the folks in MY local shop climb pretty hard and could teach him a lot.

Folks suggesting that it's better to get some hands-on guidance and mileage before plunking good money down sure are right, though.


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By Tradoholic
Oct 30, 2011

Two sets of nuts, a few larger hexs and two full racks of cams (up to BD #4) will get you up most anything. At Red Rocks sometimes big cams are needed but it doesn't seem to be often. Of course you can get by with less but it helps to have options. Don't bring the big stuff if the route doesn't require it as it will just weigh you down. If that's too much $ cut out the double cams 3,4 first then the smaller ones, the hand size (.75-#2) I often use two of.

Don't for get 10 or so 24" slings with biners. I often see new leaders clipping with sport draws instead of trad draws which usually results in bad rope drag and walking gear.

REI is hit or miss, as a company policy I believe they move people around departments supposedly to give them broader knowledge but what ends up happening is the guy who knows rock climbing is selling footwear etc.

And yes, these forums ARE for advice! Plus, whining, bickering, posturing, and entertainment. You gotta take the bad with the good sometimes.


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By dorseyec
Oct 30, 2011

Trad Ninja wrote:
REI is hit or miss, as a company policy I believe they move people around departments supposedly to give them broader knowledge but what ends up happening is the guy who knows rock climbing is selling footwear etc


Trad Ninja, wrong yet again!


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By wankel7
From Indiana
Oct 30, 2011

I've had good luck in the climbing department at the REI in CO springs and the Flagship in Denver.


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By Zappatista
Nov 2, 2011
Book me, officer.

Eric Dorsey offers yet another erudite, supportive post, full of helpful information and constructive criticism.

Yeah, M, it sounds like you're headed in the right direction already. I'll say that most likely as a newbie you'll walk into DRS and they'll tell you to get Link Cams, because they "fit ANYWHERE". Realistically, climbing in Red Rock means that certain gear like overly techy cams that get stuck everywhere (off the top of my head: top of Saved By Zero, 4th pitch of Birdland, first pitch of Adventure Punks, at least one, probably more now on Cat in the Hat), tiny brass offset wires that take experience to place and aren't as reliable in softer rock as is (zion aid freaks, I know, I know, I'm talking shit Mostafa is actually getting on, not A3+ and .12 R).

Get a set of non-weird shape (no offsets) wires, the largest five hexes, and BD .3-#4 ASAP. The rest you can borrow, and pick up as you go. Everyone has their own preferences, but BDs tend to get stuck less here than other brands (though picked up 2 on CITH when I finally broke down and took my girl up it-btw, left the Link Cam(s) without even bothering to try to remove them-junk IMO). When you're leading enough 9's and 10s on gear to start forming your own opinions, you can start accumulating the tricams, ballnuts, 50 random shaped nuts, etc. Right now you need the basics, and you need some slings and biners. Don't buy everything too fast or all at once. Take your time and take MP BS with many, many grains of salt. Climb with a bunch of people, but buy a hardshell (no foam) helmet ASAP, and learn to watch people's belay habits and safety practices like a hawk. What's gonna kill you isn't taking a huge fall on a piece of new gear, what's gonna kill you is getting dropped by some punter who threaded the Grigri backwards and was trying to dig some food out of his pack with both hands when you biffed the crux.

You'll get there. It's a lot to learn, but it really is better than working.


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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Nov 2, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin

whittlesticks wrote:
YO! check out coloradocrackgear.com Free shipping over $50


One post was enough, now you're spamming bud


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By dorseyec
Nov 2, 2011

Killis Howard wrote:
Eric Dorsey offers yet another erudite, supportive post, full of helpful information and constructive criticism.


Hmm dug up a post from three days ago to post? Aww looks like I got a stalker :)

But Trad Ninja is wrong, I just get tired of people bashing REI and making uneducated posts about the company. I worked for 5 years off and on at REI and what he said is just not true. Employees are not forced to move around deparments but it is allowed if there are openings and they want to. So I think it is helpful disproving a myth TradNinja is trying to spread..


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Nov 2, 2011
perfect seam

ah 2 posts isn't so bad, just don't get crazy with it Whittler.


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 2, 2011
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm going to be picking up .5-3 BD cams, 4-13 wired BD nuts, wired biners, guide ATC and slings to get started.


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By Tradoholic
Nov 2, 2011

Haha, looks like we hit a nerve on little Eric Dorsey. Calm down man, I said I "believe", meaning that's what I think. I remember hearing this from several REI employee's, perhaps it's not company policy, fine, but it seems to be a strategy employed buy at least our local store manager.

I also said "hit or miss" meaning that sometime you can get someone good (hit) and sometimes someone bad (miss). I think everyone had a bad service story about every gear store out there and my point to the OP was to take information from anyone with a grain of salt. Climbing gear is one of those thing you don't know shit about unless you use it, often. Sadly, stores like REI are focusing on cheaper employees and not necessarily their experience. My best buying experiences have been at small gear closets that adventure type people work at when they aren't out there using the things they sell. In other words the rep clinic doesn't qualify anyone to sell climbing gear.

I finally decided to open a gear shop in the climbing gym I was running because one of my poor sad high school employees went to REI and they sold him a cheap harness that didn't even fit him (AND he knew we get Pro Deal WTF?!?). I made him take it back and bought display cases the next week. For the record I'm sure REI has many friendly and knowledgeable staff, but they got some duffers too ;)

Mostafa, I think what you've picked out to start is perfect. There's lots of opinions out there but you will find what you like on your own. I have to put a plug in for the Mammut Super Alpine belay device, half the price of a Gri-Gri and twice the function.


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By dorseyec
Nov 2, 2011

Trad Ninja wrote:
Haha,I said I "believe", meaning that's what I think.


Right, I understand what "believe" means and also that its your personal opinion. That still doesn't make your opinion any less wrong. If you don't know what you're talking about its best to say nothing, its unfair to bash any company with misinformation.

annnnd cue killis.... I know he is stalking around here somewhere:)

erudite, vitriol, haranguing.. Which fancy word will he use this time? Perhaps a clever facepalm picture?


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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Nov 2, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin

"that its your personal opinion"

"That still doesn't make your opinion..."

"If you don't know what you're talking about its best to say nothing, its unfair to slander any company with misinformation."

Crack open a law book. Opinions are never considered slander.


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By dorseyec
Nov 2, 2011

There ya go evan, you can rest easy tonight.


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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Nov 2, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin

Eric Dorsey wrote:
There ya go evan, you can rest easy tonight.


Indeed I can, all is right in the world once again.


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By cjdrover
From Somerville, MA
Nov 2, 2011
Taken at MWV Icefest 2014.

Eric Dorsey wrote:
Right, I understand what "believe" means and also that its your personal opinion. That still doesn't make your opinion any less wrong. If you don't know what you're talking about its best to say nothing, its unfair to bash any company with misinformation. annnnd cue killis.... I know he is stalking around here somewhere:) erudite, vitriol, haranguing.. Which fancy word will he use this time? Perhaps a clever facepalm picture?


In my experience, his opinion is spot on. REI is completely hit or miss, and from what I have seen its upwards of 80% misses. Furthermore, the selection is atrocious and bizarre. The Boston-area REI with the *best* climbing gear selection (out of all 4 stores in the greater region) had exactly 4 ice screws in stock last winter - all long ones (and I checked several times) - and no screamers whatsoever. At the same time they had 12+ pairs of ice tools on hand - in other words, top roping only, please and thank you. The last time I went in, the climbing department associate was happy to show me the rainbow assortment of 'biners but didn't know what a Tibloc was, much less have any.

I'm sure someone besides Eric has had a good experience at REI, but as I have not I will continue to slander to my heart's content.


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By dorseyec
Nov 2, 2011

cjdrover wrote:
In my experience, his opinion is spot on. REI is completely hit or miss, and from what I have seen its upwards of 80% misses. Furthermore, the selection is atrocious and bizarre. The Boston-area REI with the *best* climbing gear selection (out of all 4 stores in the greater region) had exactly 4 ice screws in stock last winter - all long ones (and I checked several times) - and no screamers whatsoever. At the same time they had 12+ pairs of ice tools on hand - in other words, top roping only, please and thank you. The last time I went in, the climbing department associate was happy to show me the rainbow assortment of 'biners but didn't know what a Tibloc was, much less have any. I'm sure someone besides Eric has had a good experience at REI, but as I have not I will continue to slander to my heart's content.


I was talking about him being wrong in regards to REI requiring employees to change departments.... But thanks for the wonderful story! And just out of curiosity what were you going to use a tibloc for?


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By cjdrover
From Somerville, MA
Nov 2, 2011
Taken at MWV Icefest 2014.

Eric Dorsey wrote:
I was talking about him being wrong in regards to REI requiring employees to change departments.... But thanks for the wonderful story! And just out of curiosity what were you going to use a tibloc for?


Removing permadraws!


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By Mike C. Robinson
From Rumney, NH
Nov 12, 2011
d

Nick Mardirosian wrote:
Normally I agree with you (however much of an ass you come off as) but I think you're wrong here. I learned by reading a book, buying some gear, and going out and climbing. I'm not dead (yet) and I've done a fair amount of moderate multi-pitch. Just saying..


I'm with ya here! Don't waste your money on a "certified" course...get some books, practice at ground level, double your placements, take practice falls and don't let other climbers tell you that your out of your element, they are just jealous that you have what they don't...a penis


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By Mike C. Robinson
From Rumney, NH
Nov 12, 2011
d

Tom Hanson wrote:
Berl wrote: "a trip to a local climbing shop is probably even better than the internet." Berl, what climbing shop do you work for on commission? Better yet, send him to REI to get their advice. Seriously?


Yo Tom! I'll be out there next week! (just thought everyone else wanted to know that too)


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