How to start?

What would be a good standard beginner rack? I wanted to start climbing some trad routes about 60-100ft 1 pitch 5.5-5.7ish.

I already have from sport climbing: 10 Draws, 120 & 60(x2)cm nylon slings, about 6 locking biners, atc belay device, few oval biners, 30ft accessory cord 8mm, 10ft 6mm cord and a PAS.

Thanks for any advice.

mostafa, a quick search in the forums will net several threads on this topic and a trip to a local climbing shop is probably even better than the internet.

this is why we need sticky topics in the forums.

Many people start with a set of nuts, and then cams from about finger width to fist width. Everyone has their own brand loyalty, but you'll be fine with anything from the major players, I'd look for a sale. If you've still got some leftover cash after that consider an extra cam or two in the 1-2" range, or some smaller stuff like tcu's or c3's (really depends on what type of routes you're on, ask someone local). You'll probably want a few more 60cm slings, too, and biners to go with them.

How much cash you got?

Stopper Set

Set O' Cams

Just to cover the bases

For red rocks I would start with a set or two of stoppers BD #4-11's (even find them used here for cheap). Then maybe some cams in the finger to hand size like BD C4's 0.5/0.75/1/2. I've climbed there a half a dozen times or so in the last year, but I'm sure a local will comment. If you can't wait stop at the climbing shop on Charleston ave. and talk to the guys there.

In Red Rocks, you could climb a whole lot of trad with

2 sets of these
gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/m…

and 1 set of these
gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/m…

Not bad for $300.

You'll also probably want to pick up some extra loose carabiners for racking gear, and some more shoulder length slings. And of course, a nut tool will pay for itself over a short period of time.

ab527 wrote:How much cash you got? Stopper Set Set O' Cams Just to cover the bases

+1 if you can afford these that would be a good start.

7 maybe 8 sawed off lost arrows, set of offset brass, couple big bro's, a framing hammer and a bolt gun. Yer good to go!

Or maybe you should actually start climbing trad with someone who knows what the hell their doing so that you can learn a thing or two?

Learning to use the search function on MP or any other climbing website probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Yarp wrote:7 maybe 8 sawed off lost arrows, set of offset brass, couple big bro's, a framing hammer and a bolt gun. Yer good to go! Or maybe you should actually start climbing trad with someone who knows what the hell their doing so that you can learn a thing or two? Learning to use the search function on MP or any other climbing website probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Normally I agree with you (however much of an ass you come off as) but I think you're wrong here. I learned by reading a book, buying some gear, and going out and climbing. I'm not dead (yet) and I've done a fair amount of moderate multi-pitch. Just saying..

Yarp wrote:7 maybe 8 sawed off lost arrows, set of offset brass, couple big bro's, a framing hammer and a bolt gun. Yer good to go! Or maybe you should actually start climbing trad with someone who knows what the hell their doing so that you can learn a thing or two? Learning to use the search function on MP or any other climbing website probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.

I second Nick. I spent a month in the gym. Then went outdoor taught my self how to lead climb, rappel, self anchor, clean routes and everything else by reading books, watching videos and asking questions (which may seem dumb to you). I'm leading almost every route I've done onsight only 4th week outdoor. And aren't these forums for getting advice?

you will shorten your learning curve by getting a partner who has trad climbed and is better than you are. + by learning on thier gear you learn what type of gear you like i.e i love tri cam but hate hex's if I would have climbed with someone before buying gear i would of saved 100-150 $ along the way.

Mostafa wrote: I second Nick. I spent a month in the gym. Then went outdoor taught my self how to lead climb, rappel, self anchor, clean routes and everything else by reading books, watching videos and asking questions (which may seem dumb to you). I'm leading almost every route I've done onsight only 4th week outdoor. And aren't these forums for getting advice?

Although I don't disagree that you can learn a lot from reading and self-practice, the amount of time you've been climbing kind of discredits what you are trying to argue. Self practice is extremely useful, but nothing is as good or as efficient as a good mentor.

Since you are all about reinventing the wheel, knotted pieces of rope and chunks of 2x4's

Mostafa wrote: I spent a month in the gym. Then went outdoor ...I'm leading almost every route I've done onsight only 4th week outdoor.

So you've been climbing for 8 weeks total then? How did I miss your bio in last months Rock and Ice?

Please disregard my previous advice. What you really need at this point is a sponsorship.

Yo Mostafa,

Zero sweat, dude. Listen to the guys cool enough to give advice and know that Yarp is about the largest tool on this site. Always a nasty thing to say. Must be a quality human being. Or wildly insecure.

Best of luck to you--don't get in over your head, and don't hesitate to hire a guide for a day of one-on-one instruction. You'll learn a ton and she or he can evaluate what you're doing right and wrong.

Enjoy!

There's a whole buttload of cam and nut choices, but here's an example of a basic rack that will get you up a lot of easier climbs.

Set of BD nuts 4-13 (My first set were Abc Huevos, cheaper and worked just as well. I still carry most of them)

Metolius Powercams/Mastercams/TCUs-#1 and 2 (or aliens/basics, green and yellow)

BD C4s .5-4 (some people don't find the 4 necessary for a beginner rack, when i first started out it ended up being my most used cam)

And that will get you up what you need for now. If you want to go cheaper, check out Rock Empire or Trango. If you want variety, check out DMM, Wild Country, or my personal favorite, Totem.

Just don't be that guy that racks up with a rack of doubles from 000 BD c3 to #6 C4 for a 50 foot trad route. That's just embarrassing to watch.

I have nothing against hiring a guide. I actually am climbing with someone more experienced now and have a climber who is a guide that is willing to help me learn. And I wouldn't ever climb trad without someone who is experienced. I was simply trying to convey from my experience with sport climbing that it is possible to learn from reading etc...

That being said I just wanted to know what people used for a standard rack. Thanks for the advice for those who gave it.

I basically inherited a trad rack from an old friend, but what I've found most useful is really think long term before making purchases. That is why it is especially useful to try many different types of gear beforehand. No sense spending hundreds of dollars on gear that will sit in the closet. On that point, buy light and useful stuff even if it may cost a little extra now.

I really like the Sentinel nuts, DMM wallnuts or ABC huevos for beginner racks. Definitely get a nut tool. Cams are hard because they are all usable but you just have to be aware of the differences and drawbacks. Used is really not an issue, and sales can be awesome. Camalots, Dragons and Totems have all been good to me but I still pack my Flexible Friends as well on most routes.

sounds like you're on the right track....have a blast, dude!

bruno-cx wrote:The only piece of gear you really need is a Prana beanie. If you wear it with a naked chest you will send as hard as Sharma.

I thought this only worked bouldering, am i doing something wrong.....? I must be, this is why I climb 5.6 trad and carry to much crap.

As stated before:

The best cheap beginner rack would be

Black Diamond Camalots:

.5, .75, 1, 2

Any set of nuts

For $300 you can get the a very beginner rack and will probably be able to sew up most of those easier routes in your area.

If you buy used on here you can go a long way for your dollar