How to Set Up New Routes?
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Hello everyone! |
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Awesome!!! Looking forward to this conversation. LMAO |
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grab a bunch of redheads at home depot, hangers can be made with angle iron and a drill to save money. use aluminum if you are in to the whole light/fast thing. put one in every 2 to 3 feet and you should be good. |
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Ahh man! To the OP, you are going to get Crucified on this thread. The best way to learn all this is going with someone who has done it before and will know all the details. |
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Zack Wentz wrote:Hello everyone! I've been wondering for awhile how exactly does one set up a new sport route? Now, to get things straight, I know a good bit about which bolts/hangers to drill in for what rock types, location, etc, but I haven't found anything on technique for drilling/placing a bolt itself and knowing where to purchase a drill and bolts/hangers. I live in Vancouver, BC Canada, so if anyone has any ideas for places to find a bolt drill and bolts, please let me know.The actual process isn't all that hard, but this is not something that you can learn on the internet. You need to find someone who is developing routes, and follow them in person. Developing routes is a lot more than just knowing the right kind of drill and where to buy bolts/hangers. You need to know how to tell where the rock is good enough to put a bolt, how to properly clean the route, how to tell if a route is even worth bolting, ect. Also, you may want to ask yourself if it is really worth it to you. Do you really want to spend $500+ on a drill, properly equiping a route is going to run you around $50 minimum per route, not to mention the time involved. This past weekend I spent a full three days bolting a single 11-bolt route. Sure I could have showed up, rapped off and thrown in all 11 bolts in an hour, but then the route would have been dirty, with bad bolt placements in bad rock and it wouldn't have even been worth climbing. After investing 3 days of hard work into cleaning the rock and making sure that I have the bolts just where they should be, I think I've got a pretty good route. If you're not willing to put in the time necessary, please don't ruin the rock for future developers who are. |
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If you have to ask, you are not ready. Find someone experienced in your area and follow him around. That is the best way to learn. kennoyce wrote: You need to know how to tell where the rock is good enough to put a bolt, how to properly clean the route, how to tell if a route is even worth bolting, ect.Yep, and in this case the "ect" is an entire book of things. I could write a 50 page article on bolting and I am sure I would still miss something. Fortunately, someone else has already written that 50 page article. bolt-products.com/Glue-inBo… |
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I just wanted to learn the techniques for drilling bolts; no need for insulting comments. I've climbed with legends in the climbing world that have established famous routes in Colorado. I'll talk to them next time if I have any questions. |
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Yet the caption of your profile pic says all I need is cams cams cams... |
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yeeerrrrr gonnnaaa dieeee!!! |
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Zack Wentz wrote: I've climbed with legends in the climbing world that have established famous routes in Colorado. I'll talk to them next time if I have any questions.Haha, you do that. |
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I swear I wanted to call troll at the beginning of this thread, but I gave him the benefit of the doubt, But now that he climbs with legends, I am glad I didn't call him out. Sadly it wasn't a troll. |
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give it a fucking rest, the dude seems like a noob, but he just wants to know how to place bolts safely. |
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Zack Wentz wrote:I just wanted to learn the techniques for drilling bolts; no need for insulting comments. I've climbed with legends in the climbing world that have established famous routes in Colorado. I'll talk to them next time if I have any questions.You end your OP asking where to buy bolting equipment. One would assume that if you are looking for said equipment you are looking to bolt rock. No one is personally attacking you just asking you to postpone your bolting plans. Just curious, were they original stonemasters? |
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Evan Deis wrote: I'm impressed that you were able to penetrate into the elite climbing world so quickly. What climbing legends are you now associated with?What exactly was the purpose of your post? Oh yeah, you wanted everyone to know that you are capable being a jerk. Got it. Perhaps you should read Keenan's post above...that was meant to be read by folks like you. To Zack, As 20 kN stated, you're not going to figure out how to bolt on MP. You need a mentor, plain and simple. Stick around the climbing community for long enough and you will find the right person. Good luck. |
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Ok, here's some useful and non-sarcastic advice (which seems to be missing thus far from this thread). |