How to save my sole?

I've been burning through soles recently (I know, I know: footwork, footwork). My latest pair of brand new Anasazis lasted maybe 20 pretty moderate sessions. The problem is less to do with edge wear so much as what looks like bad pitting in the surface of the undersides of the soles. This pitting leads to little burrs and fissures that seem to become tears and holes. As a result I have started gently sanding the soles of my shoes to smooth and level the surface out. I'm not taking a lot of rubber off just a gentle leveling. My thought is that I would rather increase overall wear across a large surface area than risk gashes or holes in a small area.

Is this a good idea?

Beyond improving one's footwork is there anything one can do their soles to make them last longer?

Thanks!

Jim

From the little I know pitting in the bottom sometimes is caused by getting dirt and pebbles on the bottom of your rubber then climbing and walking around grinds that into it and causes some of those problems.

Pretty much I take a little piece of carpet to the crag and before I get on the rock I wipe them clean, if you are going hard you can even spit shine them for a serious stickyness.

Jim,

I see you posted a route in New Hampshire.
What kind of rock you climbing...Granite?

I am indeed a granite snob but I have been cleaning off a lot of scrappy routes recently. Because the rock has seen few ascents the surface is pretty rough and friable. The are a lot crystals on the surface that break off under foot. Sometimes it sounds and feels like I'm smearing on gravel.

Fun stuff!

Jim

Edit: I think staying away from Stealth C4 would help too. Grippy but too soft.

Russ has the right idea; big guys tend to have rubber 'peel' on their shoes. Your best bet is to continue lightly sanding them. I haven't noticed any longevity difference in going to a harder rubber. I only see a slight improvement in edging performance.

jim.dangle wrote:I've been burning through soles recently (I know, I know: footwork, footwork). My latest pair of brand new Anasazis lasted maybe 20 pretty moderate sessions. The problem is less to do with edge wear so much as what looks like bad pitting in the surface of the undersides of the soles. This pitting leads to little burrs and fissures that seem to become tears and holes. As a result I have started gently sanding the soles of my shoes to smooth and level the surface out. I'm not taking a lot of rubber off just a gentle leveling. My thought is that I would rather increase overall wear across a large surface area than risk gashes or holes in a small area. Is this a good idea? Beyond improving one's footwork is there anything one can do their soles to make them last longer? Thanks! Jim

The biggest thing you can do to improve your footwork to prevent this, is to never swivel/pivot once your foot is planted. That's likely what you're doing. The rubber bites in, you pivot, sole gets chewed. Pick your foot up, and then move it. You'll see a noticeable difference in your shoe wear. My footwork is still probably my biggest climbing downfall, however just doing that has at least kept me from trashing shoes. I have a pair of 5.10's that I have to have at least 40+ days in and you can still read parts of the "stealth" on the bottom.

Locker wrote:" I have a pair of 5.10's that I have to have at least 40+ days in and you can still read parts of the "stealth" on the bottom." Just wondering if stroking your ego is anywhere near as satisfying as stroking your wiener? and what's the number to Rock and Resole again please?

I really planned on the flame to be more along the lines that, that means I don't climb hard enough...because I don't.

Boots Ylectric wrote: never swivel/pivot once your foot is planted.

Though it will indeed help limit sole wear, this tenet can also severely limit your technique.

youtube.com/watch?v=Usee0F_…

Ben Hicks wrote: Though it will indeed help limit sole wear, this tenet can also severely limit your technique. youtube.com/watch?v=Usee0F_…

See Locker's comments above.