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How to manage your rope while soloing?

Original Post
photocodo mcclung · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

So I got my shiny new Silent Partner in the mail and cant wait to try it out. Im so excited that I can go out without having to find a partner or convince my wife to give me an aid belay (she just loves it). So how to you manage your rope while soloing? I have heard people talk about rope buckets. Is this the most common/easiest way to handle your rope situation? How exactly does the rope bucket work? do you carry it on your back? or does it just stay on the anchor? I know if the pitch is long enough you may have to anchor the rope to a piece of gear to prevent too much weight but what about the end going to the rope bucket? does the weight of that affect the feed of the silent partner? sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I have it all straight in my head before I head out along;)

JacksonLandFill Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 40

Read the manual. If you don't have yours get it here: rockexotica.com/products/do…

I advise against jumping on your favorite route until you have worked out your routine/methods on the ground. The questions you asked are good ones but it's covered in the manual. There are also some topics on Super Topo that may answer your questions.

Fall info: youtu.be/w6TIa0gJ0to

michael s · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 80

I will take a stab at answering your questions.

So how to you manage your rope while soloing?

Typically either carefully flaking it on the ground or using a rope bucket (rope bucket more so if you are doing a multipitch climb). You could also flake it across a sling.

I have heard people talk about rope buckets. Is this the most common/easiest way to handle your rope situation?

I think "yes" if you are doing a multipitch climb and "maybe" if you are just cragging.

How exactly does the rope bucket work?

Rope is flaked into bucket. Bucket limits chance of improper rope feeding while you are on pitch by carefully guarding your rope from all tha baddies.

do you carry it on your back? or does it just stay on the anchor?

The latter.

I know if the pitch is long enough you may have to anchor the rope to a piece of gear to prevent too much weight but what about the end going to the rope bucket?

The end going to the rope bucket is the opposite end from the situation you are referring to. Some anchoring method needs to be used on occassion on the part of the rope between your SP and the anchor since this is the end that will (hopefully) catch you if you fall. You don't want to look down and see 10 feet of slack here because the rope weight fed your rope through your SP without you being aware of it.

does the weight of that affect the feed of the silent partner?

"that"? It has been my experience that basically everything effects the feed of the silent partner.

Mitch Musci · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 665

The klemheist knot works well to take the weight of the rope mid-pitch. When tied properly, it will release it's grip on the rope in a lead fall.

Managing the climber end of the rope can be tricky. I have given up on the loops clipped to the harness method because they always get caught on things (although steep terrain will cause less issues). I choose to stack the rope in a backpack for most of my moderate outings.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

If you're using the SP for aiding, use a fat gnarly rope and you'll never have to worry about a rebelay.

photocodo mcclung · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

The snake charmer looks great for solo. Manages your lead line and haul line. Guess I need to get ahold of Russ

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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