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How to do an A0 Pendulum
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By RadTrad
From Prescott, Arizona
Dec 8, 2011
Storm over on Toms Thumb

So i really want to climb Whats My Line 5.6 A0 in Cochise Stronghold.

I was just wondering if some one could please explain how you do the pendulum on pitch 1-2. and also how would my follower (who has no lead climbing experience) follow the pendulum.


Bonus points if you've climbed the line and can tell me how it works on that specific climb!! haha

Also for the most part i think I'm going to have to double rope it, having my follower rappel over to the line…idk you tell me


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By Pat Erley
From Gunnison, CO
Dec 8, 2011
me

I would think that the easiest option is to pendulum, then run it out for a while on the chicken heads until you are a reasonable distance above the pendulum. once you put your second on belay, take all the slack, and she can do a controlled swing over to the heads. If you dont want to run it out 2 ropes would work as well. she can also lower out from the bolts in until she is in line.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Dec 8, 2011
modern man

I like the 80' runout on that climb after the pendulum. Good luck.


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By J Hunt
Dec 8, 2011

Hope this helps. Not exact, but should be close.

What's My Line pendulum
What's My Line pendulum


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Dec 8, 2011
Cool snow formation at the base.

It's not too difficult. Build a gear anchor in the corner. Climb out to the bolts, clip one, and have the belayer lower you down to the chickenheads.

From there you have several options. I did the 80' runout method. You sling a chickenhead up and left and that allows the follower to swing out easily.

Half ropes would be better so that you could protect yourself on one rope and hook the other rope on the previously mentioned chickenhead. Just make sure you lower them out on the correct rope.

I saw where someone said they tied in short and used the end of the rope to rappel out from the bolted anchors. That seems like the best method. Alternatively, you could bring a section of cord and rap off that. I think 60' doubled over would work.


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By Nick Dolecek
From Denver, Colorado
Dec 8, 2011

Hey Paul,
I recently soloed the route and found it really easy to rappel off the bolt and then make a slight pendulum over to another anchor about 50 feet down. From here have your partner also rappel and then just pull your rope and begin leading, which could make life easier on the person you are taking if they have trouble lowering out. I think the climbing is 5.8+ from the anchor on the face, but it is just a few moves, and they are really fun. This is another option, hope it helps.


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