how small is too small

People climb on both all the time. But when making your choice of which to get,just how long will a 9.2mm rope last compared to similar wear and tear of a say 10.3mm? What do you think the most important attribute of a rope is?

You're going to get a lot of responses to this one.

The diameter of a rope doesn't specifically relate to the longevity of a rope. Yes, larger diameter ropes have more surface area, larger cross sections and larger margins of error. But, most ropes get retired based on appearance of the sheath. Sheath characteristics and how you treat it will be more important factors, imo. Smaller diameter ropes do have an increased risk of being cut. But, this is a rare occurrence.

It is my believe that ropes with low impact forces have less durable sheaths (not woven as tightly). I do opt for ropes with low impact forces despite this because low impact forces means less likely hood of blowing your top piece of gear.

Rope diameter and impact forces are not directly related either. Confused yet?

I think what John said is accurate. I've owned only two ropes, a 10.3 and a 9.2, and I retired the 9.2 just last weekend. That said, having a skinny, lighter rope is awesome. It isn't ideal for toproping and whatnot, but you can certainly use it for that. I wasn't particularly gentle with my skinny line and I got like 125 days out of it.

my edelweiss performance 9.2 has outlasted fatter ropes. i work it just as hard and am constantly surprised how it holds up. i am on my second one and love it. the colors are great too.

Pete eye wrote:But when making your choice of which to get,just how long will a 9.2mm rope last compared to similar wear and tear of a say 10.3mm? What do you think the most important attribute of a rope is?

Funny asking the size question to a website with a predominant amount guys on it. I swear it's 9.2 inches. Yes...it is.

My thought is what is the quality of material? Granted, mine are PMI which lends less a concern to core damage as those things can take a beating like a longshoreman's ...anyway. And they also have way prettier colors.

Some other thoughts

How many falls are real big measurable falls? Any big fall & I'd probably rug them anyway. Sheath damage & slippage is a concern; what are you dragging the rope through, over, around, what the seconding doing to it, rope grabs & braking mechanisms, etc? So, goes back to quality of materials used.

With smaller ropes you can lose a significant bit in braking load control depending on your device. Then again smaller strands can make for more effective outings in the back country to evade weather.

All ropes have their limits; I guess it's just a matter of what is the best for the intended application.

WiledHorse wrote:my edelweiss performance 9.2 has outlasted fatter ropes. i work it just as hard and am constantly surprised how it holds up. i am on my second one and love it. the colors are great too.

yeah - my 9.2 was a performance, and i beat the hell out of it before it needed ot be put down.

My petzel Joker 9.1 was just that. I looked at it after a few routs and thought "Are you kidding me?"

My Bluewater 9.4 bicolor has been a F^%#ing fortress. I've practically hauled a partner through granite chimneys and had hangdogs under roofs see-sawing across edges. I can't fathom how it is enduring that wihtout looking worse. I'll probably buy another one when this one dies.

So I guess I'm saying that a 9.4 can most certainly be durable enough.

As far as safety goes- just make sure that you get a belay device that matches your cord so nobody dies a horrible and violent death. Try out some whips and raps with a back-up prior to committing to it being right.

ropes are aid.

"I dunno, ask the ladies."

Sorry, but after 8 responses the first wise-crack wasn't a D$#@ joke, so I had to.