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By Jason Kim
From San Diego, CA
Jun 11, 2013
Descending Cox Col (Bear Creek Spire). Photo by Ryan Slaybaugh. <br />

@Chase
If you're coming from an activity like diving, where certs are the norm, I can see why this is something you'd like to see. A cert might suggest some base level of knowledge, but it can also lead to a false impression of safety or competence. If you look at the types of accidents that occur in climbing, I question whether they would be of any real value, anyway.

There's an easy way to check if a new partner is up to snuff. Go climb a couple of familiar routes that are well below your limit. It's a relatively safe way to figure out if you want to continue climbing with someone.


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 11, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

@jason
No, i didn't come from diving. I started diving after i was a climber to have a relaxing sport on my off days from climbing. After noticing the certs were the norm i wondered what it would be like to have certs in climbing. I disregarded the thought as i like the freedoms as a climber but thought id mention it here. Mostly out of boredom. I run a waterjet at work all day and forums keep me entertained.
Also, yes that is the way i look for new buddies. . . no luck yet.
Anyway, thanks for the input. Oh and nice rope anchor vid btw, have used it a few times already. Works great.


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By Jason Kim
From San Diego, CA
Jun 11, 2013
Descending Cox Col (Bear Creek Spire). Photo by Ryan Slaybaugh. <br />

Cool, glad to hear it's worked well for you. I've got some regular partners but there's occasionally a time when everyone is busy, send me a message if you want to try and arrange something.


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By Aric Datesman
Jun 11, 2013

Way back when I posted a video in response to an argument between Majid and JohnL (on RC, and for some reason I recall blue birds being involved) about being able to rappel 35' using only a 5' section of climbing rope. IIRC the rope I used was a 10.something that had 11 twisted strands as its core. I pulled the strands out of the sheath, tied them end to end with Zeppelin Bends, tied a seat using the remaining sheath and then proceeded to rap 35' free-hanging out of a tree using nothing more than 4 wraps of the strands around a Petzl Attache. It was actually surprisingly smooth and controllable, to the point that I used the same setup several times to get the video right. and there was enough stretch that 40-45 feet was likely possible.

I mention this because I think few people here actually have a clue what sort of safety factors we're accustomed to dealing with. I'm all for SRENE and multiple backups, but at some point the engineer in me has to step back and point out how silly it is to have multiple anchor points you can hang a truck off.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Jun 11, 2013
Cleo's Needle

I've rap'd on worse than that video...a lot worse.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jun 12, 2013
me

ChaseLeoncini wrote:
In Scuba they have licenses for certain things. Examples would be like wreck diving, reef, etc. Some are mandatory, some are not. Its videos like these that make me wonder if it would be a good thing to have licenses in climbing. None mandatory. But just a license to show that the person has been trained in whatever they are teaching. For example the rappelling video. If he had flashed his red rappelling license we'd know he was trained. Then again, not every trained person does anything right. But at least your odds are better... ? Just a thought that has crosse my mind more than a few times. Especially when climbing with a new partner. A flash of the yellow trad anchor license would make me feel a lot better. Plus, it would clear up some spots to climb... (EDIT: No nvm on this sentence) Anyone else think about this?

Scuba is a HUGE business. They even will cert you as a night diver for a fee. Altitude divera is $200 a person! The instructors refuse to teach more info unless they charge you!


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 12, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

@craghead
I know, i became a cert addict. Ive got like 8 of em and my divemaster class starts this month. woohoo! $1000 bucks down the hole!

EDIT:
There are dumb classes yes. Altitude diver IMO would be one of them. However, many have taken it and swear by it. I got my night license after i already night dived like 20 times. After the class, however, i learned a lot more cool tricks.

If you wanted to save money id recommend take only OW, AOW, CPR, Rescue, Nitrox and wreck. The rest you can figure out yourself.


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By quiggle
Jun 12, 2013
y

johnnyrig wrote:
well let md be clear- I started out with a positive attitude and this one has developed over the last two years of trying to meet people here, at the gym, and at the crag. I f-n give up. But hey, just think- every time I actually DO get out there, I represent you! Only I get to portray exactly what my own skewed perception has been, and john q public wont know the difference. Now if thats not a kernel of positive warm fuzzies in your gut, well... If yer all so encouraging, how many of ya emailed the dude offering up your vast knowledge and support vs flaming away?

doubt it, finding a partner can be hard sometimes, findin a good partner that you enjoy to climb with is very hard, I ve lived in 5 different towns since i started climbing, found parners every time, change you attitude man... enjoy it


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By climbnplay
Jun 12, 2013

johnnyrig wrote:
Interesting. Lots of flaming for people who are trying to learn and apparently not having much success. I think I understand their side of things better than I understand all the flamers. Having been at this only a couple years myself, learning mostly by way of reading a few books (FOTH, Longs Anchors, Self-Rescue, On-Rope, AINAM), and having practically no luck in finding partners, I'll tell you... I give those dudes credit for making the attempt, while laughing in disbelief, with a fair amount of contempt and disgust for every one of you that posts something to the effect of "get a mentor". Yeah, sure. You know what you really find here on the forums? B.S. and big heads. Down at the crag and the local gyms? Climbers who are too sketched out by noobs to even consider taking the time to try and help them out. If you can't jump on a wall at 5.12 or boulder v8 at least, ain't nobody talking to you. You're just a noob looking for a place to splat, and by god no self-respecting climber is going to give you so much as a second look. So there you have it, part of the reason half my crap is up for sale. No partners. Tried dragging my friends around on the rock. Ha! Even tried dragging the significant other up a few routes. As if! Oh, she says she likes the physicality of it. WTF is that? Gave away her harness last week to the first lucky bidder for nothing. Then pissed on Supertopo. Now here I am. Not much climbing in my future. Just me and the Silent Partner from now on. On two years of part-time experience, no better than 5.10 on the plastic, sketchball 5.8maybe outside, and a bad attitude. Where's all them mentors again? Nah, what I need is a Go-Pro, so I can post up on youtube like these guys, where y'all can REALLY blast me. Anyone care to donate to the camera fund? I take paypal gift...


you know what you sound like? a loser defending yourself in court for petty thievery that you aren't smart enough to get away with, blaming everything on your daddy and society at large for not giving you more attention while growing up...yada yada yada. since where you live has a climbing gym and you couldn't find a partner? next time you piss, reflect in it dude.


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By mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Jun 12, 2013

There has to be climbing clubs and shit around where you live.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jun 12, 2013
me

ChaseLeoncini wrote:
@craghead I know, i became a cert addict. Ive got like 8 of em and my divemaster class starts this month. woohoo! $1000 bucks down the hole! EDIT: There are dumb classes yes. Altitude diver IMO would be one of them. However, many have taken it and swear by it. I got my night license after i already night dived like 20 times. After the class, however, i learned a lot more cool tricks. If you wanted to save money id recommend take only OW, AOW, CPR, Rescue, Nitrox and wreck. The rest you can figure out yourself.

we got our louly Pady cards from a sketchy instructor but we dive a LOT . And gotten,ourselves out of some epics just fine. In diving is like in climbing , you have to do it a ton before you can say you are proficient at it. Btw what night tricks have you learned for your thou you paid???? ...and its "dove" not "dived"...


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jun 12, 2013
me

craghead wrote:
we got our louly Pady cards from a sketchy instructor but we dive a LOT . And gotten,ourselves out of some epics just fine. In diving is like in climbing , you have to do it a ton before you can say you are proficient at it. Btw what night tricks have you learned for your thou you paid???? ...and its "dove" not "dived"...

we need nitrox for boats i known . i will be ready for recks next summer , maybe in Key West!


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By Jason Kim
From San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2013
Descending Cox Col (Bear Creek Spire). Photo by Ryan Slaybaugh. <br />

craghead wrote:
we got our louly Pady cards from a sketchy instructor but we dive a LOT . And gotten,ourselves out of some epics just fine. In diving is like in climbing , you have to do it a ton before you can say you are proficient at it. Btw what night tricks have you learned for your thou you paid???? ...and its "dove" not "dived"...


You sure you want to be giving grammar advice?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 12, 2013
...

^^^

LOL!


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

One of the best thing about CLIMBING is the fact that there are no rock police. It's wide open, go buy the gear and go out and kill yourself, if you wish.

Sort of explains it all.


Another great thing about climbing is no matter how weird you are, no matter how bad your personal hygene is, you can find partners.

Because we are all F-cked up to some degree. Who else would like to spend a vacation hanging off some god forsaken cliff, in the rain/snow with another weirdO?????

So Johnnyring what is your story????


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 12, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

@craghead
Well if you dive smart you can avoid epics. Don't like paying for certs? Don't, i could care less what you do. Dive tri-mixing while solo in caves at night, dont give a shit. I was being friendly, don't give me grammar advice when you write like you recently had a stroke.

and the traditional past tense form of dive is dived. I wrote books. prick.


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By Eric G.
Jun 12, 2013

ChaseLeoncini wrote:
and the traditional past tense form of dive is dived. I wrote books. prick.


Sure you did.

Why you would choose to write on an internet forum with 200-year-old grammar is anyone's guess.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 12, 2013
OTL

"@craghead
don't give me grammar advice when you write like you recently had a stroke."

I believe this has been used in the past to describe ella-troll also. Good stuff.


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 12, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

@Eric G:
Why anyone critiques grammar on climbing posts is anyones guess.
...and just because dove is more prevalent where you live doesn't make dived incorrect. Find a new dictionary, find dived. Get back to me as a PM. Don't continue with useless posts on this thread.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Jun 12, 2013

ChaseLeoncini wrote:
In Scuba they have licenses for certain things. Examples would be like wreck diving, reef, etc. Some are mandatory, some are not. Its videos like these that make me wonder if it would be a good thing to have licenses in climbing. None mandatory.


They are not licenses but certifications - they are not mandatory for scuba diving. Get a compressor, some cylinders, and other gear and you too can do dumb ass things just like the guy who buys gear and goes sport rappelling.

That said when you hire a boat or other outfitter they may require that you have some proof of experience such as certification but that is no different than a guide requiring you to have gone through some course before hand.

craghead wrote:
...and its "dove" not "dived"...


Either is acceptable. Dived is the correct past tense and is typically preferred because it is the standard conjugation. Dove is an irregular conjugation in a similar fashion as drove is with drive. As such, dove is considered non-standard English by many.


Now back on topic:


Rob Gordon wrote:
I like this guy. He's sort of picked up on the importance of redundancy, but doesn't understand why or how. Seems like a nice guy who could really benefit from some hands on instruction. I think the sketchiest thing might be that rail he's trusting.


I think this is the best comment so far. Yeah the railing is probably not the best idea but he is at least thinking about things. As another said, with some mentoring he would be just fine. Some could probably spend 15 minutes with him and he would understand the issues far better than some folks.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jun 12, 2013
me

Matt N wrote:
"@craghead don't give me grammar advice when you write like you recently had a stroke." I believe this has been used in the past to describe ella-troll also. Good stuff.

well i don't like you either...dumb ass!


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By ChaseLeoncini
From San Diego, California
Jun 12, 2013
El Cajon Mtn. Leonids. 5.9.

@Allen Anderson:
You are correct. When i originally posted i did think it was illegal to dive (without a guide) without the open water cert. After reading i was mistaken. Thanks for the clarification. As for using the word licenses... well thats wat ive always called em ha But yes they are certifications and when writing i should refer to them as such.


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