How narrow an edge should a strong climber be able to hold on to?

I am new to climbing and am not very strong right now anyhow, climbed about 4 times and am climbing 5.9. I tried at home to hang from the top of my doorframe and definitely cannot support my own bodyweight. I am wondering at what point that should be doable? I'm not sure how narrow my doorframe is, less than 1/2 an inch I think.

The campus (?) board at the rock gym I've been to has edges that go from about 1/2 inch all the way down to what I'd guess is 1/8 inch. Is it pretty extraordinary to be able to support your entire bodyweight on 1/8 inch?

You are climbing 5.9. Don't worry about strength right now. Technique will be the limiting factor for at least a few more number grades.

5.11 climbers can hold onto 1/16"
5.12 climbers can hold onto 1/32"
5.13 climbers can hold onto 1/64"
5.14 climbers can hold onto 1/128"
5.15 climbers can hold onto 1/256"

Most dont know it, but this is the ISO standard on measuring climbing performance. However, only a UIAA certified performance coach that is licensed in the state s/he practices in is authorized to proctor the test. Ask for their UIAA union card to be sure they are legit. Recently there was an influx of "rouge" coaches that were sandbagging the lower climbers and being softies on the harder climbers. Those guys are tools. So again, ask for their blue card.

20 kN wrote:5.11 climbers can hold onto 1/16" 5.12 climbers can hold onto 1/32" 5.13 climbers can hold onto 1/64" 5.14 climbers can hold onto 1/128" 5.15 climbers can hold onto 1/256" Most dont know it, but this is the ISO standard on measuring climbing performance. However, only a UIAA certified performance coach that is licensed in the state s/he practices in is authorized to proctor the test. Ask for their UIAA union card to be sure they are legit. Recently there was an influx of "rouge" coaches that were sandbagging the lower climbers and being softies on the harder climbers. Those guys are tools. So again, ask for their blue card.

The tool that I was working with measured my holds and said they are only 1/15". I was pretty choked that I wasn't able to climb 5.11 after my assessment. :-( I demanded a re-measure, but he would have made me pay again. Mother Trucker!

(In more seriousness, the width of the hold you can hold on to depends so highly on the style of climbing you are trying, that it is a completely meaningless measure. If you are climbing 5.12 granite slab you'll be lucky if you find any holds at all, let alone something measurable. On the other hand, widely overhanging 5.12 limestone will have some pretty decent holds - if only it wasn't a 45 degrees + overhang)

I hear they may soon re-name microns to Sharma units. Supposedly he can pull on as few as 3mics (Su). That means that ha can actually climb 5.28b. Sandbaggin'mutha'fuxa'

Oh, and door casing is only 5.7. But you fat bastard weak-mo's can still pull that 'ish streez off da wall. Best,like, anchor it down with at least, like, sum 1/4 button heads.

I can't pull up on my door frames either. They just break.

20 kN wrote:5.11 climbers can hold onto 1/16" 5.12 climbers can hold onto 1/32" 5.13 climbers can hold onto 1/64" 5.14 climbers can hold onto 1/128" 5.15 climbers can hold onto 1/256" Most dont know it, but this is the ISO standard on measuring climbing performance. However, only a UIAA certified performance coach that is licensed in the state s/he practices in is authorized to proctor the test. Ask for their UIAA union card to be sure they are legit. Recently there was an influx of "rouge" coaches that were sandbagging the lower climbers and being softies on the harder climbers. Those guys are tools. So again, ask for their blue card.

Holy crap, those are insanely small edges. WOW.

This UIAA Union performance test, what is it called? Or where do I find out about it? Not that I want to be certified now.

20 kN wrote:5.11 climbers can hold onto 1/16" 5.12 climbers can hold onto 1/32" 5.13 climbers can hold onto 1/64" 5.14 climbers can hold onto 1/128" 5.15 climbers can hold onto 1/256" Most dont know it, but this is the ISO standard on measuring climbing performance. However, only a UIAA certified performance coach that is licensed in the state s/he practices in is authorized to proctor the test. Ask for their UIAA union card to be sure they are legit. Recently there was an influx of "rouge" coaches that were sandbagging the lower climbers and being softies on the harder climbers. Those guys are tools. So again, ask for their blue card.

That's hanging just arms, your entire bodyweight from 1/256? WTF

jamesldavis1 wrote: That's hanging just arms, your entire bodyweight from 1/256? WTF

Awesome. Made my day.

jamesldavis1 wrote: That's hanging just arms, your entire bodyweight from 1/256? WTF

Well, a lot of it is learning to use your fingernails properly. Not really something that you need to learn as a 5.9 climber.

But there was that big controversy in the 90's about certain climbers taking supplements to strengthen their nails...

It's a lot more than just being able to hang onto a bad edge. A lot of it has to do with how to tension & position your body beneath(hopefully) a bad grip. Another thing to consider is the 'purchase' a hold has. Guys like woods & web can lockoff any grip with some purchase. The challenge usually lines in creating tension against holds with less than a 90 degree angle.

With that said, people who I think are strong can do one arms on the smallest edge of the Tranny board.

Glass Tupperware wrote: Well, a lot of it is learning to use your fingernails properly. Not really something that you need to learn as a 5.9 climber. But there was that big controversy in the 90's about certain climbers taking supplements to strengthen their nails...

Forgive me if I'm still a bit confused, but we are talking about holding your entire bodyweight from 1/256 of an inch? That doesn't even make sense.

Think of what an ant can do and then what a highly trained human can do. It makes total sense

M Sprague wrote:Think of what an ant can do and then what a highly trained human can do. It makes total sense

I don't know if that's the analogy that necessarily pulls it together for me, as I could also think about birds flying or crocodiles bite strength, which no human could ever match. Humans are certainly capable of some amazing feats, but supporting 160 or so lbs of weight from 8 fingers on 1/256", which is the exact thickness of a piece of printer paper, seems about as incredible as any human feat I have ever heard of. It's guna take me a while to wrap my head around how impressive that is.

Take your time. . .

after climbing 4 times, and being able to get up a 5.9 you should really focus on what youre feet stand on.

newbs and tough guys worry about arms.

If you stand on something, then your arms have to do way less work.

Even on insane overhangs the majority of a good climbers weight is on their feet.

work on the feet. work on the feet. work on the feet.

your arms and hands will come with it.

this might be the only sensible information i've given out here.

Tronald Dump wrote:after climbing 4 times, and being able to get up a 5.9 you should really focus on what youre feet stand on. newbs and tough guys worry about arms. If you stand on something, then your arms have to do way less work. Even on insane overhangs the majority of a good climbers weight is on their feet. work on the feet. work on the feet. work on the feet. your arms and hands will come with it. this might be the only sensible information i've given out here.

I'm really not worried about my arms, but I appreciate the advice.

I was simply just curious as so what size edges one could support their entire bodyweight on, with no foot support.

I'm really just climbing to get back into shape after going through a horrible health ordeal and quite curious about the sport.

Thanks

james,

...they're f*cking with you. which is a little mean. but totally right about worrying what you're feet will hold, and technique.

Jim Corbett wrote:james, ...they're f*cking with you. which is a little mean. but totally right about worrying what you're feet will hold, and technique.

Yes, quite obviously they are, wasn't 100% that they were f'ing with me or they might be saying one could get grip on their fingers on as little as 1/256 of inch, while standing on foothold, which still wouldn't have made any sense, was trying to figure out what the hell they were talking about, but ya, obviously, just f'ing with me.

jamesldavis1 wrote: I don't know if that's the analogy that necessarily pulls it together for me, as I could also think about birds flying or crocodiles bite strength, which no human could ever match. Humans are certainly capable of some amazing feats, but supporting 160 or so lbs of weight from 8 fingers on 1/256", which is the exact thickness of a piece of printer paper, seems about as incredible as any human feat I have ever heard of. It's guna take me a while to wrap my head around how impressive that is.

Its additive, though. So 8 x 1/256 is like 1/32 - totally doable without even "sanding your tips" (that's more for bouldering).