How It's Done  5.8-

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Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  July 2011 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Gunkiemike on Jul 14, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The steep opening moves.

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Description 

Who says Peterskill is climbed out? A big move off the ground leads to more reasonable climbing, mostly near the arete. Ends with a gear anchor about where Crack-a-Lack tops out.

Location 

Starts on the face right of C-a-L; 5 ft left of the arete to be precise. Go up 12' or so, step to R side of arete for a few moves, then back left to a big mantle near where the tree limb rests against the cliff. Finish easily up and left. An ALTERNATIVE START would be to start on the right side of the arete and join the route about 10-12 ft up. I'd call it a 5.5/6 line if you go this way.

Protection 

A tad runout on the much easier rock of the last 20' but otherwise it's pure G rated. It just doesn't look that way from below! Small cam (e.g. #0 Metolius TCU) to #3 Camalot. Typical rack in other words. Brown Tricam esp. useful.

Photos of How It's Done Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the arete. Just above this point ...

After trying to make the move statically, Dana fin...