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Tom's Wall & Next West Face
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Around Already 
Bent Crankarm 
Broken Pedals 
Crack-A-Lack 
First Day 
How It's Done 
Off Limits 
Reach Around 

How It's Done 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: July 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Jul 14, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The steep opening moves.

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Description 

Who says Peterskill is climbed out? A big move off the ground leads to more reasonable climbing, mostly near the arete. Ends with a gear anchor about where Crack-a-Lack tops out.


Location 

Starts on the face right of C-a-L; 5 ft left of the arete to be precise. Go up 12' or so, step to R side of arete for a few moves, then back left to a big mantle near where the tree limb rests against the cliff. Finish easily up and left. An ALTERNATIVE START would be to start on the right side of the arete and join the route about 10-12 ft up. I'd call it a 5.5/6 line if you go this way.


Protection 

A tad runout on the much easier rock of the last 20' but otherwise it's pure G rated. It just doesn't look that way from below! Small cam (e.g. #0 Metolius TCU) to #3 Camalot. Typical rack in other words. Brown Tricam esp. useful.



Photos of How It's Done Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top of the arete.  Just above this point the large tree branch is touching the cliff.  You can climb around it on either side.
BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the arete. Just above this point ...
After trying to make the move statically, Dana finally tosses for the good edge at the crux.
After trying to make the move statically, Dana fin...
Comments on How It's Done Add Comment
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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 16, 2013

Nice route. A strenuous, static crux move and then some engaging climbing to the top.