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How important are spreader bars on aid ladders?

Original Post
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

I currently have a pair of BD Etriers which I've used on shorter aid routes like City Park (Index) and Liberty Crack. The offset nature of these etriers makes them tangle easily and so I'd like to get a pair of aid ladders.

I've got a line on a pair of Misty Mountain aiders which are really nicely built, but don't have a spreader bar. How badly am I going to miss that bar on El Cap trade routes?

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

I personally would not do any aid routes without spreader bars. They made movement up the ladders much easier.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

Can easily add a spreader bar by cutting PVC. Lengthwise then taping it back shut. Ladders without spreader bars kind of defeat the purpose as it will just collapse closing the steps

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

It's an etrier if it doesn't have spreader bars. With the permanent spread opening, you now have a definate aid ladder..which of course is much easier to get in and out of with each foot move.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

It's all what you get used to. I use two sets of two aiders and am as fast as anyone. Cheyne Lempe, who has three one day El Cap solos to his credit, uses two ladders with spreader bars, and obviously, he's faster than most!

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Practice is more important that the details.

I use home grown russian aiders, but not with normal aid trees. I used a 9/16" webbing ladder aider with a spreader bar (similar to the ones Fish sells) that has a shorty ring tree integrated where a grab loop would normally be. I quickly stomp up to the ~second step, and hook up the rings to "high step" in my top rings. It works for me. I am fat, slow, and set no records (maybe most spare water ever left on top of washington column...).

Borrow whatever you can and go out to a crag and try all the combos, many laps for each system. Place a bunch of gear to make a "bolt ladder", and practice stomping up the identical ground with various systems, and time yourself. Each system tends to have plusses and minuses, but every single one is awful without enough practice. The speed and difficulty once you get things mostly figured out is not all that different between the systems.

What I have found:

Normal Etriers: harder to get the next foot into at times, as there is no weight holding it in place as your mash your foot in, I had to reach down and fiddle my foot in more often than I liked.

Ladders without a spreader: Fine in a 4 aider system, by similar comments as above about fiddling your foot into the next step, especially in the wind. In a 2-aider system, it is awful and often near impossible to get into the top couple steps due to your weight pinching the next foot hole closed.

Ladders with a spreader: Love them for a 2-aider system, easy stomping up, but expect to hate life quickly while second stepped if you have to fiddle with gear for a long time. Standing high in your aiders on just one foot on steep terrain is very strenuous, so on trickier terrain this can be awful. The full blown Yates ones are very nice, but also pretty damn heavy and quite the cluster then switching to free climbing. Never had access to enough to try a 4-aider system, and no real desire either.

Mickey Sensenbach · · San luis obispo CA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 140

check out the "speed big wall latters". they have done me good for dozens of reasons.

yatesgear.com/climbing/etri…

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Also depend on how much time you spend in your aiders vs. free climbing IMO. I like light etriers when I moving in and out of them a lot and doing more free or even french free moves. If I have to actually stand in aiders for much of the time, I like the ladders with a spreader.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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