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how do you rack your alpine draws
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By Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Jun 11, 2013
Unknown at Golden Cliffs

I rack my single-length runners on my harness (tripled of course), but I put my double-length runners around my shoulder. I clip the opposite end of the sling with the biner (like a basket hitch) and then put it around my shoulder. I learned this trick from a Steve House video a couple years ago (skip to 8:00 if you want) and it's a very easy one-handed method of getting to your double-length runners.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 11, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Greg Kimble

Guy Keesee wrote:

It is becoming understood that if you have slings over your shoulders and they get crossed, like they always do.... and you fall, and one gets snagged on lets say a flake.... you can break your neck.


What do you mean 'becoming understood'? You have any examples?


Greg, Can't do the links on I-phone... google Climbing, Oblisk, Death

Ishin died on the Oblesk, and back in 04 a climber died in Eldo...

This was all pretty mysterious(the hanging deaths) it has happened before, but it took some time to figure the root cause.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Jun 11, 2013
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

I put half as alpine draws on my back right gear loop, and half with one binder around my shoulder (right shoulder to left hip) that way, if my left hand is occupied and I can't free the shoulder slings, I can use my right hand to get some off my harness.


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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Jun 11, 2013

No one has brought up the point yet that if you carry slings around your shoulder and you can't free up that hand you can still clip the piece of gear and the rope, you'll just get your hand out as you climb past.

I've been carrying my 24" slings over the shoulder with one biner each and haven't had any real problems (although admittedly I don't lead at my full limit most of the time).

Any 48" slings I'm carrying (also with a single biner and basket-hitch style) go underneath the 24's and in the opposite direction since it's easy to unclip and slide it out.


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By Brigette
From Seattle, WA
Jun 11, 2013
At the anchors.

Jake Jones wrote:
I only wear 4' slings over my shoulder with one biner connecting the ends. The advantage is that you don't have a long ass double length hanging from your harness. You simply unclip the biner from one end of the sling and it slides right off. No having to pull it over your head and arm nonsense.


Love this! Thanks, Jake.


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By nicholas patterson
From Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2013
alpine happiness.

let him do it his way. you rack em your way.

leader needs to succeed. whatever it takes to make that happen.

spend energy adapting. when belaying him up before swapping leads, remove your remaining draws and extend them for him. same goes for any differences in the rack.

and he does the same in return. no time will be lost. you will meld together in a rhythm. and your partnership becomes more inherently meaningful.

laugh about the tediums later...over a cold one.


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