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how do you rack your alpine draws
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By Taylor J
From new mexico, new england
Jun 10, 2013
My home project.... <br /> <br /><em>Eds. It may be called "The Compactor".</em>
So me and a climbing partner are having a disagreement on the best way to rack our alpine draws when trad climbing I have my draws built up and on my gear loops. He only has one carabiner on a sling and throw it around his shoulder and then connects the sling to the racking carabiner on his gear. I argue that in a tight spot or pinch it harder to get it off your shoulder and always have to use the same arm to get it off.... thoughts?

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By Howard Snell
From Belen, New Mexico
Jun 10, 2013
I either put 1/2 the slings on forward left gear loop of harness and 1/2 on forward right, or I put 1/3 forward left, 1/3 forward right, and 1/3 over shoulder. Of those over the shoulder most have only one biner and those on harness have two biners.

Cams & nuts on gear sling over other shoulder (but under the slings if I'm awake when gearing up.....)

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By bay
Jun 10, 2013
taylor januskiewiecz wrote:
He only has one carabiner on a sling and throw it around his shoulder and then connects the sling to the racking carabiner on his gear.


yes

taylor januskiewiecz wrote:
I argue that in a tight spot or pinch it harder to get it off your shoulder and always have to use the same arm to get it off.... thoughts?


double up a sling or two and clip the alpine quickdraw to your harness prior to leading out into uncharted terrain.

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jun 10, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
I only wear 4' slings over my shoulder with one biner connecting the ends. The advantage is that you don't have a long ass double length hanging from your harness. You simply unclip the biner from one end of the sling and it slides right off. No having to pull it over your head and arm nonsense.

I also wear a few slings with one biner racked on my harness. I clip them, throw a few twists on them, and then clip the other end back into the biner. I use these for extending cams since all my cams have a biner already on them. The "alpine" draws that I have, I use primarily for passive pieces since they don't have dedicated biners and require one biner for the piece, and another for the rope.

There really is no right or wrong way. Whatever way you use, get proficient and quick at it as well as reading the right piece the first time. That way you can put pro in, extend it, and keep moving. YMMV.

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By Jonathan Dull
From Boone, NC
Jun 10, 2013
Edge of a Dream
I do a combination of the both. I rack dyneema draws on my harness that I can extend if needed (there lightweight and less bulky) and sling misty nylon runners with one carabiner over my shoulder. I'm kind of short (5' 6") so sometimes shoulder slings fall off my shoulder, and thats becomes irritating real quick.

I can see the advantages and disadvantages in both methods.

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By Larry S
Jun 10, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I carry all of them tripled on my back 2 gear loops, and all my pro on the forward two loops. I could see the sense in shouldering a few of them and having a handful of free biners, but i don't usually do that.

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By rogerbenton
Jun 10, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.
^^^ this plus a couple 4' slings doubled with a biner on each, carried over the shoulder.

Though I will now be trying jakes method for the 4 footers over the shoulder.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2013
Bocan
I found that half kept on my harness and half over my shoulder is a good way to reduce rack weight for the longer approaches.

Since it can be a little tricker to get the slings over the head, I use those for the easier placements.

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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Jun 10, 2013
Imaginate
Half over the shoulder with only one biner and half tripled up on the back gear loops. The ones over the shoulder are perfect for cams which already have a racking biner, they don't take time for the leader to un-triple and the follower to re-triple. You have to have a hand free to place a piece anyway, and I think they are actually easier to get off your shoulder and clipped than it is to undo a tripled runner with one hand. Plus you save weight by not bringing redundant biners.

Use the ones on your harness for placements you don't need a full extension runner on, and for nuts. I still keep a few biners on my harness to use the over the shoulder slings with nuts because tripling and untripling runners is a waste of time.

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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 10, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.
It is becoming understood that if you have slings over your shoulders and they get crossed, like they always do.... and you fall, and one gets snagged on lets say a flake.... you can break your neck.

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By chris21
Jun 10, 2013
All the slings on my harness with 2 footers tripled and 4 footers sixthed. Only use the 4's for extending, they will extend the same way as a tripled sling.

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By DrewK
Jun 10, 2013
Does anyone ever rack their draws on a sling around their shoulder, and then rack their gear on their harness? I usually do the opposite, but wondering if there would be any advantages to switching it up?

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By climbnplay
Jun 10, 2013
let me make this simple for you: having all the slings around your shoulder is retarded, unless you are climbing 5.5 that zigzags all over the place and requires all your clips extended, in which case you would always have bucket jugs to switch hands since you have to use the same hand to take the sling off your shoulder...in which case you would have a lot of no-hands rests, then you might as well tie them into butterfly knots around your neck to at least look stylish.

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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Jun 10, 2013
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogstick Ridge link-up.  Photo by Myriam Bouchard
If all the draws are carried this way, I'd say it is less than ideal, but I really don't think it is really a problems getting slings off your shoulder.

Here's what's less than ideal:

(1) You don't get to use short draws. There are times, e.g. when there is something to hit just below, that you really might want them.

(2) You have to have a bunch of free biners for clipping your wires, since you aren't going to be racking one wire to a carabiner, and then have to go through the motions of clipping the free biner and getting the sling off the shoulder, which is starting to get inefficient.

(3) Same problem if you don't rack every cam on its own biner.

Problems (2) and (3) would be eliminated if every over-the-shoulder sling had two biners on it, but issue (1) remains.

I carry mostly tripled draws on my harness. Especially because I climb with half ropes, they don't need to be extended that much. I also carry a few over-the-shoulder slings for additional extension purposes.

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By frank bonnevie
Jun 10, 2013
He forgot to say that I also keep a few full Draws on my harness for clipping nuts and other things of that nature David applehause is spot on to what I do saves weight and money.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 10, 2013
OTL
Combination - depends on the route/grade.

Remember, if you're all worried about getting one over your shoulder in a sketchy situation...
you can always clip directly to the piece!!!
Then extend it if needed after you can breathe.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 10, 2013
OTL
DrewK wrote:
Does anyone ever rack their draws on a sling around their shoulder, and then rack their gear on their harness? I usually do the opposite, but wondering if there would be any advantages to switching it up?


I like my gear on a sling when carrying a lot of it, but I'll do the above if I'm trying to save weight by leaving the sling (multi-loop metolius). I'd rather have the lighter slings hanging off a shoulder sling vs a heavy rack.

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By Christiney
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Jun 10, 2013
Horseman
Guy Keesee wrote:
It is becoming understood that if you have slings over your shoulders and they get crossed, like they always do.... and you fall, and one gets snagged on lets say a flake.... you can break your neck.


Can the shoulder sling really snag on a feature and break your neck? Never thought about it, but this sounds hazardous.

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By Greg Kimble
From Colorado
Jun 10, 2013
Guy Keesee wrote:
It is becoming understood that if you have slings over your shoulders and they get crossed, like they always do.... and you fall, and one gets snagged on lets say a flake.... you can break your neck.


What do you mean 'becoming understood'? You have any examples?

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By jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Jun 10, 2013
Mean Green P2
Caprinae monkey wrote:
Can the shoulder sling really snag on a feature and break your neck? Never thought about it, but this sounds hazardous.


There was an incident at Castle crag in the north American mountaineering accidents book where this happened. I still carry long slings over my shoulder, but you should avoid looping anything solely around your neck.

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By APBT1976
Jun 10, 2013
Black Dike 12/25/11
Your gonna die lol...

First time i got to say it. Just couldn't help myself.

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By bearbreeder
Jun 10, 2013
whatever works for ya ... its THAT simple ;)

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By frank bonnevie
Jun 11, 2013
I don't know tails, looks like the masses agree with me!

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jun 11, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
Matt N wrote:
Combination - depends on the route/grade. Remember, if you're all worried about getting one over your shoulder in a sketchy situation... you can always clip directly to the piece!!! Then extend it if needed after you can breathe.


Absolutely. A very important point. I have actually clipped into a racking biner with 1 placed nut and 9 others still hanging off the biner. That was enough for me to get my shit together mentally though, and adjust my stance so that I could throw a draw on it and re-rack my nuts. No pun intended.

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By Brassmonkey
Jun 11, 2013
Brass monkey
I go triples on my harness and one double (depending on the route) clipped together with one carabiner over my shoulder.

In my experience its not worth the hassle trying to get them off my shoulder, especially when I am in a spot where it just isn't easy to, or I cant take the hand I need to off the wall to get the sling. Easy climbing it doesnt really matter, hard climbing I would never put it over my shoulder due to the fall potential and the hassle of taking it off my body to clip it.

My memory is a little murky on it but there was an accident write up in supertopo where a female climber fell and broke her neck (possibly hung herself?) when either a cam on a sling or her shoulder sling caught on the rock when she took a fall (it was out of sight of the belayer). I cant seem to find it right now but I'll keep looking.

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 11, 2013
...
"whatever works for ya ... its THAT simple"

NO way! Things have to be made more complicated and many questions must be asked!

;-)

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