How do I keep my head straight?

So I've been following my crusty ol' mentor on some trad climbs - nothing extreme - around 5.8's up at Looking Glass in NC, and I find that I tend to psyche myself out when I'm halfway up the climb.

Will I get more comfortable with being high on the rock (ha ha) as I do it more? Are there relaxation exercises or breathing techniques that will help me keep my head?

I really want to be solid for my partner so that he can count on me as we multi-pitch. Is this just a skill that grows over time?

It was quite an awakening for me that it's more the mental than the physical strength that I'll be needing on these climbs...

Thanks, in advance, for your advice.

Darren

Darren B. wrote:Will I get more comfortable with being high on the rock (ha ha) as I do it more?

Yup. Climb as much as you can.

Darren B. wrote:Are there relaxation exercises or breathing techniques that will help me keep my head?

This is probably something where everyone finds their own way, but one thing that worked for me in the beginning was to try to separate good, healthy fear (ie "This placement is pure shit.") from bad, irrational fear (ie "FML, the ground is far away.")

IMHO, a certain amount of fear is healthy, because it helps keep you safe - as long as you don't let it take over.

-Chris

You might want to check out Arno Ilgner's(sp?) books, The Rock Warrior's Way and Espresso Lessons. What you are asking about is a if not the main focus of these books.

One thing that works for me. Stop, breathe, shake, chalk, repeat as necessary. This is helpful when you find a good stance, especially a no holds stance where you can lean into the rock and relax.
Nothing says you have to run up each pitch in one non-stop sequence of moves.

LeeAB wrote:You might want to check out Arno Ilgner's(sp?) books, The Rock Warrior's Way and Espresso Lessons. What you are asking about is a if not the main focus of these books.

Excellent advice. Arno would probably ask you what's psyching you out when you're high on the rock. If it's fear of falling, it's probably an irrational fear since you're on toprope when you're seconding a climb. You can work on that fear by getting someone experienced to work with you on doing practice falling in a controlled setting. And like Chris said, you need to learn the difference between rational fear and irrational fear; Arno's books and classes are great for that kind of thing.

JL

PS -- who's your crusty ol' mentor? I wonder if it's someone I know.

Provided the leader is competent, there is little to be scared of while following. If you think following or top roping is scary, then leading might give you a nervous breakdown. There are a few situations that expose the follower to hazard ie., traversing which can lead to swing falls but if you follow the rules and if the leader can build good anchors you don't have much to be scared of. Remember that knowledge is power. Learn how to be a safe climber. Know what to do if things go wrong. That should give you some peace.

Approach it from more of an engineering standpoint maybe. Get an understanding of the rigging and the forces involved in climbing. Knowing about the strengths of materials should take a load off your mind by taking the mystique out of it.

Or perhaps you're afraid of heights? I've climbed a few people like that and it's possible that climbing is not for you. A healthy dose of safety consciousness is obviously important but if your fears are so far beyond so as to be irrational you might be well advised to enjoy another sport.

I used to shake my self off the rock I was so scared when I first started leading on sport. But as time went on my knowledge and trust in the safety of my equipment and confidence in my belayer built to where I'm very comfortable leading and taking falls.

In your situation I would recommend getting in mileage on the rock and eventually you'll get to where you feel comfortable and confident. You have an advantage having the knowledge and experience of one of those crusty old climbers (better then learning everything from scratch with teenage friends while in highschool). When your scetched remember your in safe hands.

Darren B. wrote:Are there relaxation exercises or breathing techniques that will help me keep my head? Darren

Just keep breathing and think about the climbing, don't think about what's below you, you already passed that. Just think about the moves and the protection right in front of you. And take some falls if you haven't, that always helps my head!

Darren, nothing beats hours logged for fostering presence of mind; but like people have said breathe, relax-work on your climbing style so that you can be in control anywhere. In my experience, control comes from having the time to engage a rational thought process, panic is a self reinforcing state; the best defense is to stop it before it starts. Remember to breathe-oxygen is our friend.

I don't climb trad, but I've always had the same problem with sport climbing. Since I'm so comfortable bouldering, I found that it's easier on my mental to think of routes as several bouldering problems stacked on top of each other. As soon as I clip, I only think as far as the next bolt and forget about what's below.

Have you heard of the 8 ft. eggshell that Michael Reardon refers to? (Check out the Michael reardon Documentary on youtube) Only be concerned with a couple feet around you. I think of this concept all the time. Belly (yoga) breathing works really well for me. In the nose, deep to the belly, then out the mouth.

Hope that helps. Best of luck!

Glad the question was asked...and glad I found good answers here. I've always been fine with heights, but I recently hiked to the approach of a good 5.9 which had a view from the top on the way, and the wind etc. really made me consider the rational/irrational fear thing.

Hours help a lot, now and then a quick "Everything is going fine, relax and enjoy the climbing" and a deep breathe to myself, on lead or following helps when way off the deck.

But really, I feel much more comfortable this year than last year and the biggest difference is that I've been climbing a lot lately.

Thanks for starting this thread Darren. Im in the same boat and trying to overcome the mental game will be the hardest part for me. Practice practice practice. I've come along way in the last year and continue to get better with my fear of heights. The more time I spend on the rock the better i feel. Weather its standing at the top of a route after setting up a top rope, soloing some easy 5 class or just doing some raps, each time it gets a little easier. My balls aren't that big yet , and I don't plan on becoming a leader overnight. Try climbing easier routes and do some well protected sport routes. Also I like to sing a song, something nice and happy. Also remember when you are thinking about falling your not thinking about the climbing. Focus.

This is all good advice. Sometimes it also helps to pick and choose your climbs.
For instance If I'm having an off day when I'm feeling week or otherwise preoccupied mentally , it helps me to pick a lower-angled route of the same grade as a steeper route.

For instance, if you are getting a bit shakey on 5.8s figure out if there is one in particular that isn't so intimidating and go lead that. The next time do one that is a little steeper or run-out.

Chris's advice is also what I follow. When I get gripped and feel like I can't go up but don't wanna fall I try and stop, breathe deep and look at my experience objectively. I'm not pumped, I'm not falling, I'm enjoying the moment. I'm just plain scared and that's OK. Deep breathing helps. If I can place another piece of gear I do...... It's a "hat's off to Arno" that after over 41 years of climbing I still find the advicce in his book very useful.

This has all been great advice. I've been consciously breathing more. I've been drinking more water and bringing some with me. I've been building up my focus during a climb so that I concentrate on just the rock in front of me. And, since I'm typically following, I just keep repeating to myself, "You're two feet off the ground," which isn't true, but in terms of risk, is about right.

It has been getting easier the more hours I log on the rock. Now I'm able to relax and enjoy a hanging belay on a multi-pitch when before I would let my energy slowly drain through unfounded worries. I'm trusting my gear much more, which helps save energy for the climbing.

This isn't to say that I still don't get a bit freaked out on climbs. Now, and less each time, though, that irrational fear isn't what's making my decisions.

One thing that helps me is differentiating fear from exhilaration. Telling myself that I'm exhilarated and have mistaken it for fear gets me way excited too.

John Hegyes wrote:Or perhaps you're afraid of heights? I've climbed a few people like that and it's possible that climbing is not for you. A healthy dose of safety consciousness is obviously important but if your fears are so far beyond so as to be irrational you might be well advised to enjoy another sport.

actually for me the fear of heights was the main allure of climbing to begin with. i used to be absolutely terrified of heights--so terrified that i remember walking on a 4-story open-topped parking structure and being spooked. slowly conquering that fear has been an incredible growth experience to me.

darren, if you're naturally scared of heights it does NOT mean you should stop climbing. in fact it can be an amazing feeling to slowly overcome that fear. if someone tells you that climbing is not for people with a natural fear of heights, don't believe them.

Climbing is like baseball for as Yogi Berra said, "Baseball is ninety percent mental and the other half is physical."

However, the fear you describe is 100% mental. Whether you overcome that fear determines if you venture farther into the undemocratic world of trad climbing.

My first experience when fear took a back seat came about through sheer necessity. With the sun setting three pitches below the top of an eight pitch climb, the imperative to climb and make time overcame the fear that had heretofore made progress painfully slow. Until you pass through a few crux experiences of this nature and see how you perform, you will not know whether climbing is for you. And if you succeed in crisis, the feeling of elation will bring you back for more. Through rite of passage you can become (and I say this tongue in cheek as Warren Harding might have said in jest) "One of the few, the proud, the trad climbers."

Darren,
Try doing some leading at Stone (last pitch of No Alternative or the great arch would be a good start), Stone always gets my head right. ;) Even the slab simulator boulder there also helps. In all seriousness though just get out there and climb. More climbing always helps. Falling seemed to help me, especially in trusting my gear and gear in general, although I don't think I would fall just to try it. But with that being said I feel better on lead than I do following. I guess it is like a control thing, driving a car vs. riding in a car.

Jon Ruland wrote: actually for me the fear of heights was the main allure of climbing to begin with. i used to be absolutely terrified of heights--so terrified that i remember walking on a 4-story open-topped parking structure and being spooked. slowly conquering that fear has been an incredible growth experience to me. darren, if you're naturally scared of heights it does NOT mean you should stop climbing. in fact it can be an amazing feeling to slowly overcome that fear. if someone tells you that climbing is not for people with a natural fear of heights, don't believe them.

I couldn't agree more. I was absolutely terrified of heights, and still am to some extent. However, conquerinq.....(I guess really coping with) the fear of heights has been very fullfilling. Once you climb enough, and evaluate yourself more, you will begin to devolop your own coping mechanism. Mainly, realizing the difference between rational and irrational thought.

It's strange. I never thought I was afraid of heights, but perhaps the exposure on the rock triggers those fears in a way unlike anything else. I totally agree, though, that overcoming this fear has become both a goal and a source of accomplishment for me as I grow as a climber. I figured I couldn't be the only person climbing rock that was a bit afraid of heights.

Thanks for your insights.