How do I choose a helmet?

I'm not heading out to the crag just yet but I like to be prepared. So that said, I'm going to buy a helmet. The question is, which one? I know some people don't wear them but I'm going to assume that despite being a welder my brain meats are important, so I'm going to protect them as best I can.

So price aside what factors am I looking at? Fit, weight, color. Right? Or is there more to it? Recommendations would be appreciated.

FIT is everything ... a helmet MUST fit ... once you find the ones that fit work from there ....

read this

ellis-brigham.com/advice-in…

and this

climbing.com/news/no-braine…

;)

ditto to what bearbreeder says - fit, first and foremost.

Theres generally two different types - suspension style (typically a hard shell that sits above your head) and foam (that sits "on" your head - like a bicycle helmet) and I guess some might say a third would be a hybrid of sorts being a foam inner with a hard outer shell.

A couple more links that are helpful and will get you understanding your options a little better are here:

outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing…
and
rei.com/learn/expert-advice…

Try some on. It doesn't matter if it it's the best reviewed helmet if it doesn't fit your head or feel right.

Good luck and safe climbing-
Dan

bearbreeder, thanks for the links. They were very educational and much appreciated.

Dan, thank you too. I'll try as many on as I can before I buy. I'm not in a big hurry anyway.

The shell type tend to be more durable i.e. Petzl Elios, Black Diamond Half Dome, etc. I have an Elios I've used for years and still routinely use dragging. You can stuff it into a pack with near impunity, which can crack or damage some of the foam only helmets.

The foam-only type can be lighter and more comfortable, although the latter is a personal subjective aspect. I have a Petzl Meteor III which seems to sit on my head better than my Elios and is more comfortable, truly it is "all-day" comfort. One other thing I like about the Meteor III or other foam helmets is that they offer some side-imact protection which is nice for skiing, mountaineering, etc. Helmets like the Elios, in comparison, have some foam but only on the top of the head to protect against rock fall from above. They offer less theoretical protection from a side impact, or an upside swing into the wall when you hit occiput-first. Several years ago there was a bad leader fall at the Gunks when someone swung into the wall and hit occiput first, sustaining a bad closed head injury, despite wearing a helmet (disclaimer - I'm not sure what type of helmet he was wearing, it may have offered occiput protection but I don't know).

In the end, there are a large variety of excellent helmets available for a reasonable price today, so find something that fits your head, budget, and climbing needs.

Just incase any of you who posted were interested. I went for a Petzl Elios. I tried the BD Half Dome and didn't like it. The Vector felt wonderful but seemed more fragile and was also more expensive. The Elios fits well and looks like it'll do that job. Thanks all!

I had a half dome. Never liked the fit. All the foam eventually broke out.

Now I have a vector. I love the fit and ventilation. We'll see how long it lasts.

One of the best things I learned early on that one of the best ways to learn about gear is to see it working it see it in stores. Read the links above and then go to a local gear store abd ask relevant questions and check stuff out. I work I'm a gear shop, and most of us LOVE to talk to people who are willing to listen. Most customers just come in, get what they need and go, so spending time teaching product info is fun for us and it's a great way to get free info.

Max, I actually have a guy like that at the store nearest me. When I get to the rest of the gear I'll go talk to him some. Although having worked retail before (guitar store) I also know management can push sales staff to try and sell what they have in stock, not what's best for the customer. I never listened to that perspective when I was in retail though. I wanted the customer happy and coming back. So I see both sides.