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How did you climb the awkward pitch on WDD?

Original Post
Wes Goulding · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 10

5-1-14

I need help on the awkwardness.

There is a pitch above the Ahwahnee ledge on Wet Denim Daydream that was pretty difficult for me to climb. I think it was 6? I was moving up quickly, then it got steep and there was a small roof, above this was a flairing crack leaning away from me. This section took some time and effort to climb. Anybody else have an issue here? What is the beta?

Here's what I went through. I'm on my aid ladder, but because it is steep below the roof, I can't elevate to get a piece in much higher than my last piece. I go to the adj aider and pull in, but due to my feet not able to push off the wall, & the crack leans away from me, I can only place about six inches higher. Of cource this repeats five more times. Feet continue to be ineffective under the roof, and due to the flare and the crack going away from me I could never make good progress. Also due to the flare the upper aider would pin everything below the top piece. I had to alternate using my adj daisys, adj fiffi and clipping the rope and pulling myself up.

Maybe another aider, more curls?

Thanks in advance

Wes

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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