|The North End
Great stone and thrilling movement make this route among Shelf's better 13a's. The business is brief, but gymnastic, commiting, and fun.
Stick clip the first bolt, then make deceptively difficult moves to gain the wall. Good pockets lead to a good stance below the bulge. Follow rounded, slanting crimps and less than ideal pockets up the scoop to a make-or-break huck for the obvious heuco. Pull onto the slab and manage the pump over steadily easing terrain to reach the anchor.
On the Heaven Wall, immediately right of "Stairway to Heaven" and 2nd route left of "Boulder Hypocricy", climbing through a black, concave bulge.
~5 bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.
|By jenn flemming|
Apr 12, 2011
Why this route only gets a few stars in the guidebook is beyond me. It is one of the best 5.13s I have been on at Shelf. The rock quality is stellar, and the route is characterized by steep, dynamic moves through a bulge. This eases to a number of powerful yet technical moves to establish over the bulge. The route is incredibly fun, and the crag has some of the better limestone in the canyon.