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House of the 7th Bobcat 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Hirst, Derek Pearson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Michal moving into the flaring thin hands section ...

Description 

(1) Start on a short handcrack up a trailside block, then continue up moderate ground to a bolt and a final short splitter. Belay at a comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. 5.9.
(2) Bouldery tips laybacking (crux) past 2 closely spaced bolts leads to a rest pod. 5.10 crack climbing leads to chain anchor. 5.11+ or maybe 5.12-.

Take care not to soak your rope on the descent, which tends to steer you down the soggy Lookout Direct starting slab just L of the route. It is also possible to rap or top-rope the entire route with a single 70m rope.

Location 

About halfway between Bobcat Cringe and Steel Pulse. Starts right off the trail.

Protection 

Single 60m rope, light rack to 3", mostly in the 1/2" to 1" range. Chain anchors on both pitches.


Photos of House of the 7th Bobcat Slideshow Add Photo
Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam after the crux on House of the 7th Bobcat.
Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam...
The short starting handcrack
BETA PHOTO: The short starting handcrack
Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback section of House of the 7th bobcat.
BETA PHOTO: Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback s...
Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.
Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.
Pitches 1 & 2, from the base
Pitches 1 & 2, from the base

Comments on House of the 7th Bobcat Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The crux on the first pitch is next to the bolt. It involves palming a left-leaning edge that has a good jug on top. The bottom hand-to-fist crack can be avoided by laybacking up the right edge of the flake, though it has no protection.

The crux on the second pitch is getting past the second bolt. Really thin undercling-layback cranking for a few moves to a nice fingerlock just below a hand pod.
By michal
From: Everett WA
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Link both pitches in one for full value, great climb with a sequential crux. Really loved the off fingers section! Hike up and do this climb!!! Soooooo good...