House Made of Dawn
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | David Powers, Mark Sprague April 29, 2012 |
Page Views: | 2,013 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | M Sprague on May 1, 2012 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
The first slab approach pitch to Muffin Man is a quality climb by itself. Between Black Flies .. and Green Party (see the cliff topo mountainproject.com/v/10862… ) , step up to the start of a short left leaning flake, then step right and roughly follow the bolts up the quality slab to an anchor at a good stance below the big second pitch flake system. Be prepared to zig and zag some from the bolts for the easiest line. There is a thin crux about 1/3 of the way up that may seem desperate if your shoes are warm. It felt 11a when we climbed it in ideal conditions, but I remember it feeling much more insecure while bolting it in the Fall, so we are calling it 11b and await confirmation. Some of the footholds are micro, so temps will make all the difference. Dave on-sighted the FA. ..a really nice pitch if you like slab, and then a second pitch, Muffin Man 12+ rears up above and gets even better! Don't let the couple clumps of vegetation you weave by at the beginning (might need some gardening in the big pockets if it hasn't been climbed in a while) put you off. The climbing is excellent.
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