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Unsorted Routes:

Hourglass Direct 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 6, 2006
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Brian on Hourglass.

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Hourglass Direct climbs the blank face just to the left of Birch Tree Crack. Though a far less asthetic variation starts by climbing to the alcove on Birch Tree and then moving left to the face, the direct version (starting right off the ledge) presents a more inspiring line.

Start on the ledge and look for the holds. Now, look closer. They are there, but they are very small. Pull up and go. This start is V4ish and is all about how hard you can pull on non-existent crimps. This is classic vertical, technical, nightmarish 5.12 DL climbing.

The holds get bigger, then smaller, and then bigger toward the top. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the route derives it's name by the "thinning" nature of the holds in the middle. Anyway, if you want to experience hard Devil's Lake crimping, here's your route.


Toprope. I would be surprised if this has been led without putting gear in Birch Tree.

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By Zachary
Sep 7, 2008

We were just talking about how this route got its name... we think maybe it is because the route starts in the middle of the 2 cracks which kind of shape an hourglass feature in the rock...

but who knows why people name things sometimes...

By Tony Brengosz
Jun 16, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The blocks on the ledge are on for feet right? I couldn't figure a way to do it without using them.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 17, 2012

If you couldn't do the moves without your feet on the block then you suck, Tony.

By Tradoholic
Jun 17, 2012

Sven says "Move left and climb the face straight to the top". I believe this indicates the blocks are off? But who the hell knows!

I wouldn't get too torn up about it Tony, probably reachy. However, sometimes some chalking and scrubbing of microscopic bumps reveals how to levitate.

Yes, you also suck if you can't do it. Gotta get used to sucking at Devil Lake. Fuk'n brutal.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 18, 2012

I got tired of sucking at DL so I moved to suck elsewhere. It never gets old.

By Tony Brengosz
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I am so torn up about this, I just pitched a belated wobbler.

By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 24, 2012

This may be because I want to have sent this, but I think that the blocks are on as long as you only use the ones that are truly left of the crack, and not the ones that are actually sticking out of the alcove. Since the blocks are really just a higher part of the starting ledge, eliminating them seems kind of arbitrary, especially since you need to use foot chips only a few inches above them. Thoughts?

By Erol Altay
Sep 29, 2012

There are blocks all over the base of the climb. Take your pick. The point is the direct start has a couple of hideously small holds off the deck which has you immediately aware that the clock is ticking; which I think is the point of the name.