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Hour of Power S 
Phalanx, The T 

Hour of Power 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Eric Murdock 2005
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Sep 23, 2012

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Description 

Climb the difficult red face to a first set of anchors (used for lowering off) and then proceed up for 70 more feet of giant jugs of all types: underclings, flakes, crystals, and cracks. There is a fair amount holding this climb together, but it is a lot of fun.

NOTE: A 60M rope will not get you to the ground without using the midway anchors!


Location 

This route is located on the Pawn formation on the side that faces Catalina Highway. We hiked down the hill while we were climbing at the other Chessman areas. If you wanted to do just this climb it might be quicker to hike up from the road.??


Protection 

15 bolts + chain anchors



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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

70m reaches the platform you belay from (up a ramp and below the first bolt).

Crux on the bottom part is height-dependent and the second half is just kind of spooky.

Extend the two bolts to the side of the giant flake so that the rope clears the flake when you move left at the end of the route.