Hound's Tooth  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  Mike Amato and Ron Olsen, 4/11/07 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Apr 12, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Hound's Tooth is a new variation to Beer Dog. It shares the first three bolts with Beer Dog, then breaks right and climbs an airy "hound's tooth" arete.

Start as for Beer Dog, at the top of the approach trail to the Lower Tier, at the bottom of the rappel gully.

Scramble up broken rock to the buttress just left of the gully. Climb Beer Dog past the first three bolts, with some difficult (10b) moves past the second bolt. After clipping the third bolt, break right onto a slab. Clip the fifth bolt with a long runner, then move left and up to the sixth bolt. Continue up to some jugs and swing left onto the arete. Make some airy moves up the arete to the anchor. This finish is 5.9 to 5.9+; easier if you're tall.

Location 

Same as Beer Dog. On the Lower Tier of the Bihedral, at the top of the approach trail, on the buttress left of the rappel gully.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Shares the first three bolts with Beer Dog, and the first five with Canine Corner. Bring a longer runner for the fifth bolt.