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 ADVANCED
The Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Dog S 
Botonga S 
Brace for Impact T,S 
Canine Corner S 
Free at Last T,S 
Git 'Er Done S 
Hound's Tooth S 
Leave No Trace T,S 
Like a Wonk T,S 
March Madness S 
Quick Work S 
Release the Kraken T 
Tinnitus S 
Where's Ron S 
Wonky T,S 

Hound's Tooth 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Amato and Ron Olsen, 4/11/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,171
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 12, 2007

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Description 

Hound's Tooth is a new variation to Beer Dog. It shares the first three bolts with Beer Dog, then breaks right and climbs an airy "hound's tooth" arete.

Start as for Beer Dog, at the top of the approach trail to the Lower Tier, at the bottom of the rappel gully.

Scramble up broken rock to the buttress just left of the gully. Climb Beer Dog past the first three bolts, with some difficult (10b) moves past the second bolt. After clipping the third bolt, break right onto a slab. Clip the fifth bolt with a long runner, then move left and up to the sixth bolt. Continue up to some jugs and swing left onto the arete. Make some airy moves up the arete to the anchor. This finish is 5.9 to 5.9+; easier if you're tall.

Location 

Same as Beer Dog. On the Lower Tier of the Bihedral, at the top of the approach trail, on the buttress left of the rappel gully.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Shares the first three bolts with Beer Dog, and the first five with Canine Corner. Bring a longer runner for the fifth bolt.


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By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Nov 7, 2007

This is easily the best of the three routes conjoined at the bottom here. Good crux above the second bolt, nice lieback to the small overhanging move. Do this and skip the ones to the left and right.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The best of the 3 routes by some margin. The lower crux felt 5.9 but getting out of the corner is harder, maybe 10a for all folks, more for the very short.
By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 2, 2012

Really surprised this is 10b.... I thought it was much easier, but maybe I'm just getting better. Still a very fun route.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a good route. It is certainly the most physical near the top. The hold here is a big jug, but the feet are not very good.