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 ADVANCED
Ed and Terry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

Hotwired 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

A more trad variation to Roaches on a Face. Darren K. led me up this some time ago, telling me that it had been done years ago but somebody and he needed to check the gear for his guide book.
Begin on the same bolted face as Roaches. When you reach the downward pointing flake/overlap, head left using a small crack for gear. If memory serves me right DK used small TCU's and even a brass nut. The roof was a quick a grunt and the upper face is mostly mellow. You have to be a bit creative with your gear on the upper face, but it didn't merit a PG rating.
One more variation to do on this beautiful wall.

Protection 

mostly small nuts and cams. Be prepared for less than perfect placements here and there, but nothing scary.


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By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

Called Hotwired.
FA= Jim Knight