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5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 28 votes
Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | EFR,JSt, '01 |
Page Views: | 4,422 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 9, 2006 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.
Location
The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.
Description
This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.
Location
The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.
Photos
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