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Hotshot 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: EFR,JSt, '01
Page Views: 1,614
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 9, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.


    Location 

    The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.


    Protection 

    Bolts


    Description 

    This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.


    Location 

    The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.


    Protection 

    Bolts



    Comments on Hotshot Add Comment
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    By Hendrixson
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 8, 2012
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    This line, while enjoyable and moderate, may not be for a leader breaking into the grade. There are up to 30ft run-outs on moderate terrain. Some of these could probably be lessened with nuts and slings.

    A more moderate alternative would be Fisherman's Elbow on the Fortress.

    I believe the crux may be avoided by skirting in from the left and starting from the second bolt.

    By Sean Campbell
    Aug 15, 2012

    Just did this route yesterday. Very fun!
    Notes:
    2 single 60m rope raps will get you down the route (tie knots in the end for the first rap... it's very close to the end).
    For the second pitch, clip 3 bolts, continue up to the big ledge, and walk left to see the anchors. Belay off this ledge and then climb up and left to the previously mentioned anchors.