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Hot Wire 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alber and Rolofson, 1997
Page Views: 1,128
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Not too classic compared to the other routes in this sector. Despite the fact that this route has been around a few years, it still seems to be in the process of cleaning up.

This long line is directly right of Hot Flyer. There's a bit of glue at the crux and there are scars around many of the holds on the lower half of the route... not the most aesthetic line. Nothing obviously manufactured, but I don't think I want to know how much cleaning went into putting up this route. The crux comes at the fifth bolt pulling over a small roof onto a slab... pretty tough... open hand strength is a plus. The middle section is sustained, fun 5.11. A no hands rest comes before firing through a tricky 5.12 section (watch for the loose hold) before the anchors.

Protection 

13 QDs. A 60 meter barely gets you back to the ground..


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By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007

Fantastic route despite the claims of it being chipped (hard to tell). It does have a lot of rock scars and friable rock in the upper dihedral, but the roof crux is way cool and the climbing very sustained -- 100 foot (30 meter) pitch. The flake at the chains is suspect and will eventually pull off (beware). Combined w/ Hot Flyer and Plan B in a single outing -- this would be a great power-endurance workout.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2007

Correct me if I'm wrong but.... this route seems heavily chipped. Even if there was a lot of cleaning for the first ascent, the whole middle third is covered in chisel scars and obviously enhanced crimps. A sad climb.
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2007

Adam, you say the route was chipped with such conviction. It's not obvious to me -- you may be correct; however, I would get the facts before making such a statement.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2007

Dan-

I said "correct me if I'm wrong". If I'm wrong, I gladly retract. But in this case, having seen many chipped holds on other routes (particularly other Chris Alber routes) and having dogged through Hot Flyer and checked out the holds, I have little doubt that more than a couple of the holds where chipped. No need to take offense Dan. What I said had nothing to do with you. It had to do with how the route was created.

Peace,

Adam
By superjosh
Jun 29, 2007

I thought this was a great route, and as it cleans up with a bit more traffic it will only get better. It's very continuous and felt solid at the 12c grade--the thought-provoking crux is followed by 5 or 6 bolts of sustained 5.11 climbing. If you're tired of the overgraded one-move wonders in Boulder Canyon, check this thing out.

As for the alleged chipping, like Dan said it's hard to tell based on appearance. It certainly doesn't climb like a chipped route, especially at the crux, which could easily have been dumbed down a couple notches with one strategically placed quarter-pad crimp.

Either way, it's a really fun route well worth a reconnaissance burn at a minimum.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2011

I, myself, am surprised that I hadn't been on this rig until today. As for the quality, etc, I am a full on route snob and despite a couple holds of questionable integrity, I thought the movement was quite enjoyable. As for the (crux) hold enhancement accusations...I think the "mini strip-steak" hold starting the crux, which obviously was glued back on, should be removed and the climb sent without it. It appears that there will be ample hand grips in its absence; just a little bit harder, perhaps. As far as the right-hand sidepull, that one looks like it maybe was gouged out, but it's hard to say for sure. My impression is this route musta bin way dirtier and for a while, post FA. I'd say it cleaned up rather well. I'd knock it one star for the massive rest at the top and the slightly contrived feeling of the moves getting up to the last roof lip.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 6, 2012

I thought this was a great route despite everyone bashing on it. Quite varied and consistently tricky climbing most of the way. Super fun crux as well with some fun moves on big buckets to finish the route with great exposure!