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Hot Tuna 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Follet, 1996
Page Views: 1,730
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sometimes things get tougher when you only have on...

Description 

On the West (Oceanside) face, this is the route under the lower and diagonally facing roof in the center of the wall that has bolts on the roof.

Climb to and then use the crack under the roof using all the feet you can find, hanging on to the overhung rock.

Climbing is pumpy, and there are two cruxes, clipping the third bolt and clipping the top anchors.

Also note that the 'bad bolts' that older books refer to have been replaced. The new ones work great.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.



Photos of Hot Tuna Slideshow Add Photo
Hot Tuna from a ways back at lower tide.  The first bolt is NOT in the picture, though it is in line with the others down and left.
BETA PHOTO: Hot Tuna from a ways back at lower tide. The firs...
Above the 2nd
Above the 2nd
Comments on Hot Tuna Add Comment
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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route makes a good "first .12"

By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 15, 2011

super fun movements in a great setting, only had one go and sat at the crux and then the sun went down, need to come back soon - mickey's is so fun!

By Caliza
Mar 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Good route, this has become the Mickey's beach warm up. :)