On the West (Oceanside) face, this is the route under the lower and diagonally facing roof in the center of the wall that has bolts on the roof.
Climb to and then use the crack under the roof using all the feet you can find, hanging on to the overhung rock.
Climbing is pumpy, and there are two cruxes, clipping the third bolt and clipping the top anchors.
Also note that the 'bad bolts' that older books refer to have been replaced. The new ones work great.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Hot Tuna from a ways back at lower tide. The firs...
Above the 2nd
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
This route makes a good "first .12"
|By Ben Broche|
Nov 15, 2011
super fun movements in a great setting, only had one go and sat at the crux and then the sun went down, need to come back soon - mickey's is so fun!
Mar 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Good route, this has become the Mickey's beach warm up. :)