Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sweet Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atomic FireBall S 
Butterfinger S 
Cracker Jack T,S 
Everlasting Gobstopper S 
Good and Plenty S 
Hot Tamale S 
Jaw Breaker S 
Kit Kat S 
Lemonhead S 
Mounds S 
Now and Later S 
Pay Day S 
Peanut Brittle S 
Pop Rocks S 
Rick Krispie Treat S 
Taste the Rainbow S 
Thingamajig S 
Whatchamacallit S 
Zagnut S 

Hot Tamale 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Diesen, Daryl Allen
Page Views: 1,895
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...

Description 

Steep sustained and pumpy climbing up overhanging rock with minimal rests. After 70 feet take rest before pulling last 20 foot section to anchors. From anchors step left on very thin face past a couple more bolts. Cruise last section on easier ground to top. A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top. Otherwise make 2 60 meter rappels back down. Could scramble to the top and walk off to the North.

Location 

The bolted line up the right side of the obvious alcove.

Protection 

bolts. midpoint anchors @ 90ft and top anchors


Photos of Hot Tamale Slideshow Add Photo
Top Rope Princess Amy going up the great Hot Tamale.
Top Rope Princess Amy going up the great Hot Tamal...
Amy happy to pull the crux
Amy happy to pull the crux
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
Amy getting to the crux
Amy getting to the crux
Mike belaying from top anchors of Hot Tamale.
Mike belaying from top anchors of Hot Tamale.
John near the end of "Hot Tamale"
John near the end of "Hot Tamale"

Comments on Hot Tamale Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 30, 2013
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 9, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The most sustained route on the wall IMHO. Great for running laps to build up hand strength!
By Boodge Nomchompski
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route, Daryl. It's cleaning up nicely - there seems to be less temporary holds on this one that on some of the others.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 1, 2009

ccmski wrote:
Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...


Possible explanations:
1) All bolts are in the first 50 feet,
2) Elves unclip the bolts at random intervals,
3) Half of the bolts are "trick bolts" attached only with velcro.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Beats me.. no recollection of how or why i did that. Fixed!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2009

... 4) honest mistake. :)
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 2, 2009

Actually, I could see a pg13. If you blow the 3rd clip you could split you nuts wide open on the pointed ledge just below the 2nd bolt. I already did that. That's why I have no more balls!!! :-)
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2009

ouch!! i vote for an x rating.
By joedeltron
Mar 15, 2010

A well bolted 10 with pumpy moves (thanks Angel!) Super fun with interesting features, great for taking relatively safe falls for beginning leaders.
By Paul Davidson
Apr 28, 2011

I think our crew felt this was our favorite climb on the wall (but we didn't do the 12s.) We did it twice actually when we ended up back on the wall for our "rest" day (Steiger's idea of rest is to lead LemmonHead (or was it Zagnut?) and Everlasting Gob. That's a Rhichard kind of rest day.)

For me, I thought the starting moves were the crux and it seemed like the 2nd clip if blown could warrant a PG13. Probably more about just adjusting to the type of climbing and being on a TR meant I wasn't very zoned in. Grossman and Mish didn't seem bothered by the starting clips.

Great position and moves, very classic Windy Point feeling.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 30, 2013

I have not done this route in a long time, but I definitely recommend doing this route by combining both pitches in one. That is the way to go! 70 meter will get you down.