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 ADVANCED
Iceberg Boulder
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Hot Tamale 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: L. Anderson 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: socalbolter on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Iceberg Boulder - West Face

Description 

This climbs the right side of the West face of the boulder. A very hard heel hook sequence (the crux) leads to delicate face climbing. This route may have been top-roped previously as there was an existing anchor above it and a couple of questionable holds (chipped?) at the start.

Protection 

5 bolts to an existing top anchor. The old hangers on top have been replaced with Fixe ring anchors.


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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 11, 2011

Chipped and apparently glued too. There is funky pink coating/ residue on a couple of the obviously chipped holds and some of it smeared and/or washed onto the rock above and below those holds.

As for the climbing, reach will help. The crux starts with the very first move, is about five moves long, and there is a dynamic move in the middle that was at the extreme end of my reach at 5'9". The route is basically a V7/8-ish boulder problem with actual holds, to a 5.10- slab that gets progressively easier. Shady morning to early afternoon.

For a Josh route of this rating, if you're tall enough, this one is pretty do-able and would be a good candidate for the gym-trained crankers.
By RTM
Oct 11, 2011

Thats a shame if it was chipped and glued. It looked like a pretty cool problem.