|first buttress south
Another crack climb, easier than the Indy 500, though not as good.
Start up the easy corner, rarely clean or dry, and continue for a good 20m to the base of the crack. It is normal to belay here, but the route can be climbed as one pitch. Now set out up the crack on good jams, with decent rests never too far away. Towards the top, the crack starts to get wider, dirtier and harder until the angle eases just below the top. A scramble up the easy ground above will gain some good block belays.
This route unfortunately requires just a bit too much climbing up the wet corner, and then the crack gets dirty towards the top. If it were clean, I expect it would be a good route, but I can't imagine that happening due to the earthy slope above: any rainfall will just wash more dirt down. As it is, there's more quality nearby so go do Roadrunner (P1 only) instead!
Start below the wet, vegetated corner, as for The Indy 500
A BD #3 or #4 will be useful for the wide section at the top of the crack.
|By Nick Russell|
From: Bristol, UK
Sep 30, 2013
British grade VS 4c, but top-end. In fact, maybe a bit of a sandbag, VS+ 5a?